A Full-Bust Wishlist

I know more often than not we make wishlists for things that actually exist (that we generally wind up impulse-purchasing in a moment of weakness– wait, just me?), but having just come from Lingerie World Extravaganza Expo All the Lingerie Ever February 2013, I’ve been looking at my wardrobe, my lingerie drawer, and my shopping options with an ever-more-critical eye.  I’ve been ruthless about my wardrobe lately; pruning things that no longer fit or flatter, eliminating “fast fashion” pieces that last three wears or fall out of style quickly, and seeking out clothes that are cut to fit me, rather than forcing a sort-of-but-not-quite fit.  Thanks to some re-migrated breast tissue my bust is fuller than it used to be, and thanks to pole dancing my shoulders are stronger and a bit broader than they were five years ago.  The clothes I’ve worn for 5-10 years are tired and no longer fit.  I’m sick of too-short skirts, tops that don’t fit my shape, cardigans that gape, and synthetics.  I don’t necessarily follow fashion “rules” like no-short-skirts-past-20 or big-boobs-can’t-wear-high-necklines, but I do evaluate any new clothing item very, very carefully, thinking about how I’ll feel by the end of a work day.  Will I still love it, or will I want to tear it off and reach for a t-shirt?

"Candy Box" longline bra by Kiss Me Deadly

“Candy Box” longline bra by Kiss Me Deadly. I wants it.

My lingerie is the same.  It’s an unfortunate reality that sometimes we have to wear a new bra for a full day before we realize it’s not a match made in heaven.  At that point, of course, you can’t return it, and you’ve sunk $40+.  With time and practice you get better at recognizing a good fit from the get-go, but it can be supremely frustrating trying to build a supportive, complete lingerie wardrobe and figure out what brands fit you at the same time.

As winter is beginning to trickle away sloooowly, I’m evaluating the holes in my regular wardrobe and my lingerie wardrobe, and I’m beginning to think about some budgeting.  The bad news is, there are lots of things I’d love to add to my wardrobe. My sense of style and fit is stronger than it’s ever been before. The good news is, none of the things I’d like to add to my wardrobe exist in the full-bust market!  Woohoo!  Wait.

Look, some of these things exist, or they’re starting to exist.  In many cases, however, I’m still waiting for a perfect fit, rather than a this-almost-works fit.

Lingerie:

Oh my god, WHAT is the holdup with a G+ longline bra? Seriously, this trend has been happening for the last three years, it’s here to stay (I hope), and yet it’s still mostly trapped in the 30-38 A-G size range (Fussy Busty and Windie (picture below) provide reviews of Freya’s most recent iteration of their half-cup longline).  Why is everyone married to a padded half-cup shape as the only cup shape available to slap a longline band on? It doesn’t support as many sizes, and frankly I don’t really LIKE padded half cups.  Elomi is getting there with their Roxy style for Spring/Summer, but even that’s only planned to go up to HH.  What about smaller-backed G-K customers? WANT.

Look at how amazing Windie looks in her Freya longline bra.  I mean, for starters, the color is gorgeous on her.  But the bra itself is feminine, cute, classic, and contemporary all at once.

Look at how amazing Windie looks in her Freya longline bra. I mean, for starters, the color is gorgeous on her. Furthermore, the bra itself is feminine, cute, classic, and contemporary all at once.

When I spoke with the Freya rep at CurveNY she confirmed that Freya is expanding their cup size range for their half-cups (to an H), but G+ longlines (especially non-padded) are still but a dream (also, Eveden brands don’t play well with my shape). Bravissimo, the ball’s in your court. Your basque is amazing, now just shorten it.

"Roxy" by Elomi, 34-40 E-HH.  Still a fairly small size run, and the pattern is NOT MY CUP OF TEA.  At all.  I mean, I don't think it's repellant, and I think it's going to appeal to a lot of women who might be sick of frills and flowers, but I had hoped for better.

“Roxy” by Elomi, 34-40 E-HH. Still a fairly small size run, and the pattern is NOT MY CUP OF TEA. At all. I mean, I don’t think it’s repellant, and I think it’s going to appeal to a lot of women who might be sick of frills and flowers, but I had hoped for something else.

After talking with a few retailers, I can sort of see why the trend has been a little slow to reach the G+ market: you have to keep a bra’s hanger appeal in mind, and a 34HH or 30K longline bra is going to look like A LOT OF BRA.  If you’re just opening a woman’s eyes to life past DD, she might take one look and balk (she might also be stuck in the mindset of “lingerie must be sexy for men and men won’t like this”. First of all, lingerie CAN be sexy, but sexiness is not its raison d’etre, and secondly, you are the one who wears it.  If it makes YOU feel good, that’s the important thing).  I think, though, that with the explosive growth of the lingerie markets in the last decade, increased public awareness of different styles, and more fashion-conscious women looking for lingerie that fits their personal style, G+longlines would be a good bet for a designer.  At the end of the day, a good, firm, deep band with 6 or more hooks (and even some light side boning) would feel so, so glorious for women in the G+ size range.  Our boobs are heavy.  Support comes from the band.  Help us hold them up, please.

Strapless basque: I suspect Bravissimo might be working towards this, as they’re selling their own strapless bra up for F-J cups now, but I would love a strapless/convertible bra with a longer line, or even a strapless basque. I very much want to wear halter dresses and strapless dresses and tops this summer, on account of pole-dancing arms, but so many halter dresses have elasticized backs that bunch up unattractively over a good firm strapless bra band (I confess to some middle-torso smoosh contributing to this). Bravissimo’s Lola Luxe basque is light and breathable, yet still smoothing, and a strapless/convertible basque or longline with that kind of figure flattery would be worth its weight in gold.

"Rosa" by Fantasie.  When a lot of women think "wedding lingerie" they think of something like this.  I forsee a few problems with a G+ version: contour cups just don't play well with certain sizes, and the boning might get stiff and uncomfortable.  Bravissimo is experimenting with light boning in the cups of their strapless bra, which would allow you to get the good fit of a cut-and-sew and the stay-in-place power of a contour

“Rosa” by Fantasie. When a lot of women think “wedding lingerie” they think of something like this, and there is NOTHING like this for women who wear over a UK G-cup. I foresee a few problems with a G+ version, primarily that contour cups don’t play well with extended sizes, and the boning might get stiff and uncomfortable. Bravissimo is experimenting with light boning in the cups of their strapless bra, which would allow you to get the good fit of a cut-and-sew and the stay-in-place power of a contour, so maybe when they do me a solid and produce something like this for G+ cups they’ll have it all figured out.

More interesting matching knickers and accessories: I get it, I get it.  Bikini + Thong.  They are the classics, and I don’t want them to go away.  HOWEVER!  Look at what Claudette is doing.  Look at Parfait.  They still offer bikinis and thongs, but they are also offering SO MUCH MORE.  High waist knickers, suspenders, ruffles, shorts, skirted thongs, tap pants, tangas.  Some days (and some times of the month) you just want a comfy giant pair of underpants.  I would adore it if they were also cute and matched my bras.

LOVE. THESE. KNICKERS.

LOVE. THESE. KNICKERS.  Moar pleez.

Prints: Oh my gosh, this topic came up recently in a discussion amongst some of my fellow bloggers, and their suggestions are AMAZING.  Seriously, take a look at this list and tell me you don’t also want bras like this:

From Quest for the Perfect Bra: Old school botanical prints, cats, tiny whales, galaxy print

Space Print Big Knickers by Knickerocker.  How cute would this be as a matching set!??  Actually, scratch that, how cute would ANY of her knickers be with a matching full-bust bra?  Will someone out there in full-bust world collaborate with this talented woman, please?

Space Print Big Knickers by Knickerocker. How cute would this be as a matching set!?? Actually, scratch that, how cute would ANY of her knickers be with a matching full-bust bra? Will someone out there in full-bust world collaborate with this talented woman, please?

From Bras I Hate and Love: Polka dots, tiny animals like whales, cats, and dogs, snowflakes, and Fair Isle

Fair Isle print bra and knickers by Pull-In, a French company with a HUGE range of fun, unusual prints

Fair Isle print bra and knickers by Pull-In, a French company with a HUGE range of fun, unusual prints (but not, alas, sizes)

From The Lingerie Lesbian: Hieronymous Bosch prints

Detail from "Garden of Earthly Delights" by Hieronymous Bosch

Detail from “Garden of Earthly Delights” by Hieronymous Bosch.  For all your high-brow, faintly disturbing lingerie needs

From Sophia Jenner: Tiny boats, tiny tigers [zomg tiny tigers would be so cute! -Ed.], tiny ponies (sensing a theme? we were all pretty gung-ho on tiny animals)

"Bella" Sailboat Bra by Kensie, available at Nordstrom.  32-36 B-DD, featuring a J-hook to convert it to a racer back.

“Bella” Sailboat Bra by Kensie, available at Nordstrom. 32-36 B-DD, featuring a J-hook to convert it to a racer back.

From Les Gros Bonnets: Tiki prints or deep green jungle foliage

Tiki print dress by Pin Up Couture

Tiki print dress by Pin Up Couture

From Braless in Brasil: Space ships, race cars, superheroes

Guitar Knickers.  From Knickerocker, again.  I can see this working well in a full-bust line aimed at supporting full-bust teenagers, but I frankly can see women my age and older wearing them happily too

Guitar Knickers. From Knickerocker, again. I can see this working really well in a full-bust line aimed at supporting full-bust teenagers, but I also see women my age and older wearing them happily too.

Lingerie is able to be so much more than the beige/black/pink floral-lacey things we put on under our clothes.  There are so many creative people working in this industry now, and some wonderfully fashion-forward offerings are available even at budget price points.  It can really be an expression of personal style, the more so since you can hide it under your uniform or business clothes.  Why NOT have a little fun with it?  I definitely don’t want florals or lace to go away (never leave me, lace), and Freya and Cleo have made some headway in the full-bust print department, but I think we can do more.

Loungewear: The scene is getting better, I’m just crabby and want more.

JEN-JPL194-Black-Porcelain_11

Jenny Packham, via Journelle. Will never be mine, on account of kittens and their Fur of Great Tenacity (and also, you know, budget), but if I found something like this that fit my boobs and showed off my gams, I’d never take it off.  (Plus, you know, marabou heels, gimlet, chaise lounge, etc.)

I want to see babydolls (Cleo and Curvy Kate are the first out of the gate with this one, with J-cup and K-cup babydolls, respectively, on the horizon for the end of the year), chemises, rompers, bodysuits, tank tops, pajama sets, the works, all designed to fit and/or support a larger bust.  In particular, I’d love a high-quality jersey robe with enough room in the bust to wrap  around me completely and STAY wrapped.  I also wouldn’t say no to a fitted long silk kimono with dramatically enormous sleeves, and I believe my stance on floofy robes is well-known at this point.

Silk Chiffon Wrap by Jenny Packham.  Add boob room and hand me a winning lottery ticket, and I'll take it!

Silk Chiffon Wrap by Jenny Packham. Add boob room and hand me a winning lottery ticket, and I’ll take it!

Baddassery: If you are a full-bust lady, especially in the G+ range, your style options are much more limited than your smaller-busted counterparts’.  Don’t get me wrong, IT’S SO MUCH BETTER than it used to be.  I still feel so sorry for Teenage Sweets.  She had the worst underwear, bless her heart.  However, if kitschy prints, florals, lace, dots, and other girly/womanly/super feminine styles aren’t your cup of tea, your options are pretty much non-existent unless you go for custom-made.

Lascivious, via Faire Frou Frou

Lascivious, via Faire Frou Frou

I’d love to see full-bust versions of FYI by Dani ReadVPL, Marlies DekkersLascivious and other high-end, edgy, sophisticated lingerie lines– something with a darker, fiercer bite, something a little sportier, or something a little more androgynous.  I love the feminine frills, of course, but not every full-bust woman is born with an innate desire to look like a pin-up girl or a Gibson Girl.  I’d like to see more options available.

Insertion Bra Fern by VPL

Insertion Bra Fern by VPL

I was going to include clothes, but I’ve been living at the office this week and haven’t had time to blog, and anyway this post has gone on long enough, don’t you think? We’ll tackle clothes soon. What would YOU most like to see in the full-bust market?  Is there anything you absolutely love that you think is missing, or that you think would find an eager customer base?

CurveNY Preview: Claudette

Claudette has absolutely exploded since their debut in 2011. From an incredibly stylish launch with a variety of retro-yet-modern styles and their signature mesh “Dessous” that went up to a G-cup, they’ve generated huge buzz and been picked up by stores large and small alike.  The new season promises to be better than ever. ALL new styles are offered in the full size range: 28-38 A-G (UK), which is thrilling for customers who missed out on some styles the first few seasons.

As exciting as CurveNY was, after a while some designs started to feel . . . familiar. The issue of inspiration and borrowing when it comes to design has been a hot-button topic in the fashion community for a while now, yet Claudette feels particularly fresh for A/W 2013, especially for a full-bust line. Claudette has been smart about slowly building their collections, tweaking fit, and adapting existing styles even as major retailers like ASOS, BareNecessitiesFigleaves, and Urban Outfitters started stocking their pieces.

Claudette Autumn/Winter 2013

Claudette Autumn/Winter 2013

Far from coating the cups in lace or embroidery or reverting to cutesy, lollipop prints, Claudette’s A/W 2013 is unexpectedly and unabashedly grown-up. With a focus on unique color pairings, contrast trim, and sophisticated accessories, and gambling on a single print, the collection is beautifully cohesive, elegant, and sexy.

Dessous Mesh

Dessous: Tomato Soup

Dessous: Tomato Soup

Dessous put Claudette on the map with its bright neon mesh and contrasting bows. Despite the fact that this is, in my opinion, Claudette’s least groundbreaking design (Miss Mandalay and others have been doing neon mesh and contrast trim for several years), they frankly marketed the hell out of it and it remains enormously popular.

Chinchilla/Lollipop

Dessous in Chinchilla/Lollipop

The new colors might be my favorite yet: Chinchilla/Lipgloss (a gorgeous grey with bright pink trim), True Blue/Lipgloss (bright navy), Oxblood/Lipgloss (Oxblood has been a major fashion color for the last few seasons), and Tomato Soup/Phlox (Bok, Claudette’s designer, said she literally matched color swatches to a bowl of tomato soup to hit the right shade).

New colors for "Dessous" by Claudette

New colors for “Dessous” by Claudette: Chinchilla, Tomato Soup, and Navy

If neon isn’t your bag, Dessous is also available in Black and Mauve, as well as American Tan and a new Sandstone color for Spring/Summer 2013, both trimmed in Navy. I really love these two neutral options as alternatives to the dreaded “nude”. The colors seem intentional and well-considered, instead of just defaults.

The print for the A/W 2013 collection is snakeskin, and if you’d told me that without showing it to me I would have wrinkled my nose.  It’s tough to woo me to animal prints in general, and I’ve never lost my heart to snakeskin anything.  I have to admit that it looks pretty fantastic in real life, especially in the richer purple shade.  Both Dessous and the Satin Ouvert (more below) will be available in snakeskin in various colors: a classic silvery gray (Satin Ouvert), Dark Grape, and Lipgloss (Dessous).

Dessous in Lipgloss Snake.

Dessous in Lipgloss Snake (Dark Grape is just behind it).  Photo courtesy of MissUnderpinnings.com

All Dessous sets include a gorgeous matching brief with a ruched back seam for a form-fitting look, as well as a thong, both trimmed with contrast bows.  The Claudette team were generous enough to give me a Dessous Leopard thong to try after our discussion.  Y’all know that I think thongs are evil instruments of torture, but WOW.  This cut fits really beautifully (I found it to run a size smaller than Freya but with a slightly higher rise than Cleo, for what it’s worth).  I might be a grudging thong (and leopard-print!) convert.

Dessous Convertible:

Black Grape Dessous Convertible

Black Grape Dessous Convertible

Claudette again shows off its knack for the unexpected by releasing its first convertible/strapless bra not in the typical black or beige but in a bold solid purple (Black Grape with Phlox trim) and deep purple snake print.

20130304-212316.jpg

The detachable straps are a beautiful grosgrain.

Dessous Convertible in Snake

Dessous Convertible in Snake (courtesy of MissUnderpinnings.com)

This is a really fun change of pace for a strapless bra, and apart from Freya I can’t really think of anyone who’s offered a colorful convertible bra in D-G sizes (certainly not as the debut colors).  I adore the Black Grape, and I’m waiting with ever-decreasing patience for my size to appear.

Sophia

Black Grape Sophia Icon

Black Grape Sophia Icon.  The Claudette team reported that they’d had VERY mixed feedback on this, their first campaign shoot with a man in the frame.  I found the pictures insanely hot, but I can understand why they wouldn’t be everyone’s cup of tea.  Do you think they’re fun or off-putting? 

Sophia Black Grape Suspender Brief

Sophia Black Grape Suspender Brief

Sophia was the style that most caught my eye when Claudette debuted, and I was deeply disappointed that it was available in a limited size range.  I’m thrilled that the style now goes up to a G, so that more women can bask in its loveliness.  Claudette has dropped the color-blocking of earlier seasons (Bok told us she wasn’t satisfied when the color-blocking scaled up to the full cup size range, so they changed the pattern rather than exclude any sizes) and has instead gone for bursts of bold, saturated colors with black stretch velvet trim, flat black bows, and detailed accessories: a high-waisted knicker features detachable suspenders, and an otherwise classic brief is trimmed with cheeky back ruffles.

Sophia Icon Padded Bra with Ruffle Back Panty in Oxblood

Sophia Icon Padded Bra with Ruffle Back Panty in Oxblood

I didn’t get to see the color below in person, but I love both the soft turquoise and the sassy boyshort– this is a fun change of pace for women who shy away from traditional lingerie colors or the girlier accessories. 

Sophia Minx in Turquoise with Boy Short.

Sophia Minx in Turquoise with Boy Short.

Fishnet

Fishnet is a brand new range for Claudette, and like the original Dessous line it makes a big visual impact.  The weave is more open than Dessous (hence the “fishnet”), yet it still offers firm support, and bras are available in two different shapes: a two-part balconette cup with a curving, across-the-bust seam and a “double cup” bra made up of a demi bra with vertical center seam and an external side support.  Available in Neon Turquoise, Neon Pink, and Neon Purple with wide black trim, the range winks at retro styling while still feeling absolutely fresh and new.  Rather than a classic bikini brief or thong, Claudette offers two more unusual choices: a high-waist Retro Suspender Panty (which I obviously adore) or a Tanga.

Fishnet Pink Mesh with Two-Part Cup and High Waist Suspender Brief

Fishnet Pink Mesh with Two-Part Cup and High Waist Suspender Brief

20130304-212238.jpg

Turquoise Fishnet Double Cup Bra with External Side Sling and Tanga

Turquoise Fishnet Double Cup Bra with External Side Sling and Tanga

Ouvert Satin

Okay, seriously, now we’re getting to the big leagues.  These are a bit of a gamble for the American market, as one thing I heard over and over again at Curve was that European and UK brands notice a distinct difference in American preferences versus the UK/Europe markets.  American customers have historically wanted smooth, molded, “invisible” bras and seem to have an overall horror of seams and embellishment (although this seems to be changing).  It looks like the gamble is going to pay off, as the Claudette team told us that the Ouvert range was one of their most popular products at Curve.  “Ouvert” is French for “open”, and in the lingerie world it’s often associated with knickers that have a very open back with just a few straps or ribbons holding them up (Damaris is one of the greats for ouvert knickers).  Claudette takes the ouvert concept and runs with it, presenting a stunningly luxe satin bra with a line of fully functional buttons running down each cup, as well as a matching satin bikini with a very discreet open crotch and more functional buttons running down the center back.  Both the brief and the bra can be fully unbuttoned before being removed (for those who aren’t as interested in the button-back brief, there’s also a beautiful coordinating side tie brief). 

Stunning upside-down photography of the Ouvert Satin bra in Oxblood.  Yes, I know, you are dazzled.

Ouvert Satin bra in Oxblood. Yes please.

Again, I love that Claudette never defaults to black/beige/pink/classic red.  There’s nothing wrong with those colors, but they’re EVERYWHERE.  Oxblood, Snake, and Navy for the launch of a new style are far more unexpected and intriguing.

Satin Ouvert (photo courtesy MissUnderpinnings.com)

Satin Ouvert in Snake (photo courtesy MissUnderpinnings.com)  YOU CAN UNBUTTON ALL THOSE TINY BUTTONS, you saucy tease you!

Claudette Ouvert Satin Side-Tie Knickers

Claudette Ouvert Satin Side-Tie in Navy

I’m used to seeing “sexytimes” revealing lingerie that is . . . well, smutty.  Cheap and smutty.  NOT THAT THERE’S ANYTHING WRONG WITH THAT.  Cheap and smutty can also be fun and hot.  Either that, or the revealing stuff is also the high-end luxury designer stuff, and as such is prohibitively expensive.  But this?  This feels fantastic.  It’s sophisticated lingerie for a woman who knows herself and her fabulous body, with a price point that’s much more accessible than, say, Agent Provocatuer or La Perla. I can see the wearer performing a slow, lingering striptease or allowing her partner remove each piece ever-so-slowly, one button at a time.  There’s nothing cutesy or precious or coy about it; it’s grown-up, gorgeous, and powerful. 

* * * * *

Claudette remains a brand to watch.  They’ve been smart about their designs and size ranges, even as keeping up with production demands has surely been a challenge.  They’ve added 28 backs and tweaked their fit and handle in response to feedback, and they’re working steadily towards expanding their cup sizes.  Their social media presence is fun and engaged.  Bok and Lindsey reported that we can expect to see GG and H cups within the next two years, with more cup sizes to follow and a goal of reaching a K-cup before too long.  I for one will be very interested to try Claudette once my size is available.  I have heard wildly varying fit reports, from women for whom this is indeed their “new favorite bra” (as Claudette’s slogan promises) to women who struggle to find a size that suits their shape and frame.  I can’t wait to take these styles out for a spin.  What do you think of the Autumn/Winter 2013 collection?  Are you excited for the new styles, or do you prefer more classic looks?

Claudette Official Site
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Beating the Heat: All-or-Mostly Cotton Bras

I got a request from a dear friend for an all-or-mostly-cotton shopping guide, and seriously, could the timing be any better?  In four days New York has gone from 65 degrees to 95, and the city is just one giant concrete-and-skyscraper heat-trapping hell-hole.  Sometimes.  Not always.  But I am not alone in wishing that more subway-riders took up deodorant.

SORRY.  Where was I?  Cotton.  Cool, lovely, breathable cotton, the fabric of our lives, but not, so often, of our bras.  Particularly once you break out of the standard sixteen sizes (32-38 A-D), unlined mostly-cotton bras are few and far between.  Cotton doesn’t always give the same supportive-yet-stretchy fit synthetics do, it can be trickier to fit perfectly, and then to top it off cotton prices have risen dramatically in the last few years.  We just don’t have as many options.  Bravissimo used to stock a bra that was a beautiful cotton eyelet, but the brand (Faubourg) seems to have stalled, and I’ve only seen swimsuits from them this year.  There are a few sizes of the cotton bra left in the sale section.

Calvin Klein and some other department store staples seems to stock a regular supply of cotton bras, but they also tend to be padded or molded, thus defeating the heat-relief-seeking purpose.  Otherwise, cotton and natural fibers show up primarily in maternity wear, wire-free bras, and bralettes.  Bralettes are awesome (see Sandmaiden Sleepwear on Etsy for more pretty, natural-fiber choices), but finding full-bust and full-figure options that are also cute or stylish can be a challenge. Continue reading