Review: Strapless Bras for GG+ Cups- Elomi Smoothing Strapless

Posted on June 17, 2013 by Sweets

One of the perks of abruptly changing cup sizes over the last year has been the discovery that all of a sudden I can wear Elomi bras. Elomi’s recent collections have really upped their game in terms of style and fit, and their Autumn/Winter 2013 collection looks to be absolutely gorgeous. They were one of my favorite showings at Curve, despite the fact that I didn’t appropriately schedule my appointments and only really got to see them from the sidelines. When I was looking for a strapless bra to wear to a friend’s wedding this summer I reached out to the lovely Erica at A Sophisticated Pair for help, and she suggested trying the Smoothing Strapless bra by Elomi in my sister size (as it’s not available in my true size). Elomi will release a beautiful new strapless range in super-comfortable spacer fabric in August in a hugely expanded size range (as well as 32 bands in the basque, a first for Elomi!), but for the time being we had to fudge it a bit.

"Maria" basque and brief in black. Strapless bra and thong will also be available, and the whole collection will also launch in Ivory. Basque sizes 32 DD-HH, 34-40 D-HH, 42 D-H, 44 D-G, 46 D-F, 48 D-E (all cup sizes UK). Accessories M-4XL.

“Maria” basque and brief in Black. A strapless bra and thong will also be available, and the whole collection will also launch in Ivory. Basque sizes 32 DD-HH, 34-40 D-HH, 42 D-H, 44 D-G, 46 D-F, 48 D-E (all cup sizes UK). Accessories M-4XL.

I placed a special order for the “Smoothing” strapless bra in beige, and it arrived the week before the wedding.

36-42 D-GG, 44 DD-G, 46 DD-E, 48 DD. Molded bra, plunge bra, nursing bra, basque (black only) and seam-free bra also available, along with coordinating coordinating short.

“Smoothing” Underwired Foam Molded Strapless Bra by Elomi. 36-42 D-GG, 44 DD-G, 46 DD-E, 48 DD. Molded bra, plunge bra, nursing bra, basque (black only) and seam-free bra also available, along with coordinating coordinating short.

Construction: Like the Freya Deco “Shape” Strapless I reviewed earlier, it features smooth, molded cups and multiple points of attachment for the straps, so you can keep the straps hidden under different necklines and armholes. The straps are ever-so-slightly wider than those that came with the Deco, and they’re very soft with good stretch for comfort.

Appearance: Smoothing is very much a basic, functional piece of lingerie, and as such it’s nowhere near as pretty as the Deco Shape, which is intended to be bridal/special occasion wear. It’s by no means unattractive though: the lines are clean, it’s smooth and soft, the color isn’t too dingy, and there’s event a discreet, shining bow at the center gore.

Fit:

Unfortunately, as nice as it would have been to have a basic strapless bra, Smoothing felt much smaller in the cup than the Deco Shape. To some extent this has to do with something Freddy Zappe touched on at the Eveden fitting event at Curve (both Freya and Elomi are Eveden brands). Freya caters to the full-bust market, and Elomi to the full-figure full-bust market, and as such the patterns for each brand are designed for different builds and body types, even though there’s overlap in their size ranges. Deco Shape offers more projection in the cup, as well as feeling slightly more “structured” when worn: it offers very firm, very sturdy support. In spite of my moaning in my review about the hooks and not-at-all longline band, when I wore the Deco Shape under my dress for the wedding, that sucker STAYED PUT. I walked, I danced, I danced some more, I threw my hands up in the air like I just didn’t care, I carried buckets of flowers, I helped unscrew light bulbs at the end of the night, I hauled baking supplies home at 1:00 the following morning, and when I took my dress off and dropped it on the floor in exhaustion, my bra (and my boobs) were where I’d positioned them ten hours earlier.

Elomi’s bra, on the other hand, felt softer on the body, slightly more gentle. Whereas Deco Shape is a somewhat fearsome piece of engineering, Smoothing feels ever-so-slightly less sturdy. The band closes with three (you hear that Freya? THREE. not two) columns of four rows of hooks-and-eyes, and features silicon grippy strips at the top and bottom edges of the band, albeit thinner than those on the Deco Shape.

Of course as lovely as it is to have a bra that cradles you gently instead of hoisting you up, when it comes to a strapless bra I really need the latter. Another difference between the two bras I tried is that Smoothing’s cups are set further apart: the gore is wider, the wires are wider, and the cups themselves are more spread out and shallow. It’s simply built for someone with a slightly wider build, even though the band was a pretty good fit. My boobs are full, but they’re close-set with a lot of projection, and ultimately Deco Shape matched my, uh, shape, much better than Smoothing.

Here are two bras in the same size, same style (molded strapless), made by the same parent company, and yet they fit very differently. It was another good reminder not to get frustrated if you try a bra on in “your size” (or sister size, in this case), and don’t get a fit you love. The size on the tag is only part of the story. Try on as many bras as you need to to find a shape and fit that suit your style and your body.

“Smoothing” strapless bra by Elomi retails for $69 and is available at Nordstrom, Figleaves, Big Girls Bras, Classic Shapewear, and through A Sophisticated Pair.

Giveaway: Affinitas and Parfait

Posted on June 11, 2013 by Sweets

In addition to providing the set Julia Lambert reviewed yesterday, Affinitas has generously offered readers of Sweet Nothings the chance to win ONE OF TWO BEAUTIFUL PRIZES (!!):

1. One Serena set (convertible balconette bra (can be worn strapless!), hipster panty OR thong), in Pistachio by Affinitas, in sizes 30-38 A-DD, XS-XL

“Serena” convertible balconet bra and hipster panty by Affinitas. 30-38 A-DD, XS-XL.

2. One Madeline set (wire bra OR contour bra, high-waist brief OR bikini) in Black by Parfait, in sizes 30-40 D-G, XS-XXL.

"Madeline" high-waist bra (this image shows the contour bra; Julia Lambert reviewed the wire bra yesterday) in Black by Parfait. Bra 30-40 D-G, brief XS-XXL.

“Madeline” high-waist brief and bra (this image shows the contour bra; Julia Lambert reviewed the wire bra yesterday) in Black by Parfait. Bra 30-40 D-G, brief XS-XXL.

I am so thrilled about this, because it means a prize for my non-full-bust readers as well! All cup sizes are UK sizes (A, B, C, D, DD, E, F, FF, G).

To enter, please leave a comment on this post telling me about your dream lingerie set. Affinitas/Parfait offer some amazing options: bustiers, longline bras, babydolls, plunge bras, and a variety of fun accessories. What would you most like to see in your lingerie drawer? What colors do you think are missing? Are you a lace or a print or a colorblocking kind of person? I’d love to hear what your creativity can dream up! ALSO, AND THIS IS IMPORTANT: please tell me in your comment whether you’re entering the Affinitas giveaway, the Parfait giveaway, or both (as those of you who wear D and DD cups are able to). You can enter both giveaways, but you will only be able to claim one prize. The contest will close at 11:59 p.m. EST on Friday, June 14, 2013. I will contact the winners by email and announce the winners on Monday, June 17.

More fine print:

This giveaway is open to United States residents ONLY. I’m really sorry about this, but the good news is I have another giveaway in the works that will be open to my international readers. I hope to share it with you in the coming weeks!
ONE entry per giveaway per person. I will assign each comment a sequential number and use a random number generator to select the winners. Please be sure to log in with a valid email address, so that I can contact the winners. If I have not heard from the winner within 48 hours of the drawing, another winner will be selected.
Once the winners are announced, I will coordinate delivery of prizes with Rich PR. Please note: I am unfortunately unable to offer any returns or exchanges if something doesn’t fit well. If you haven’t tried these brands before, I really recommend seeking out a boutique near you where you can try bras on and find your best fit, so that you can feel confident that the size you request will fit you well.

GOOD LUCK!

And Then There Were None: Strapless Bras for G+ Cup Sizes (plus a review of Deco Shape)

Posted on May 30, 2013 by Sweets

I’m someone whose bra size shifts noticeably with even slight weight changes. For a while there I was up, down and all over the place, but over the last two years, as my band size has stabilized and breast tissue has migrated thanks to consistently well-fitting bras, my only size changes have been increases. I’ve watched, to my disappointment, as whole sections of the lingerie market disappear from my list of shopping possibilities. Adieu, Parfait. Claudette, we were ships passing in the night. Longline bras, I dream of what we might have had. As long as I was floating around the D-G size range, most full-bust brands made my size in a great variety of shapes and styles. With each cup size past a G, however, a new chunk of the market vanishes.

Let’s play a fun game: go to a major lingerie retailer and use the search-by-size feature with different cup sizes and see how many options are available. Here’s what Figleaves offers:

32G – 450 styles

32GG- 181 styles

32H- 177 styles

32HH- 112 styles

32JJ- 47 styles

To some extent these results are misleading; searches for “G” and “H” are also returning American G and H-cup bras, which are significantly smaller than their UK-counterparts. Figleaves also counts each different color of a particular bra as a different “style”, so the counts are a little inflated. Regardless, the difference between G and GG cup sizes is huge: a drop from 450 to 181. There’s another drop-off after GG, another after H, and yet another after J. This is why I get so excited when new styles, and especially new brands, launch up to an H-cup. Sure, our friends who wear J+ cups are still waiting (come on, Cleo, you gotta add JJ and K-cups, because you’re awesome), but it’s encouraging when a new brand aims high at the beginning, which hopefully bodes well for future expansion.

A search for “strapless” options on Figleaves makes the size cut-offs clear:

Strapless bra options for a 32 band: AA-H.

A woman who wears a 32 band has a few choices up to an H-cup (and only Panache’s “Evie” and Masquerade’s “Deity” are available in an H); beyond that there are no more options.

Curvy Kate will be launching their strapless bra for Spring/Summer 2014! I’m really excited to hear more, and as soon as I know anything (like, oh, a size range) I will report back!

To be fair, it’s important to recognize that H+ strapless bras are going to be more challenging to design and build, simply because they will be asked to do more work. Even though the band of the bra should be doing 80-90% of the work of supporting the bust, larger boobs mean that more weight (the 10-20% which would ordinarily be taken by the straps) is going to be “unaccounted for” in a strapless bra. Bravissimo experimented with their strapless bra up to a J-cup, which incorporates additional rows of hooks and soft boning in the cups for added support in fuller cup sizes, but it appears that they’re not planning to re-order this style, as sizes are selling out and staying sold out. I hope this just means they plan to redesign it and release a new style (maybe a strapless basque? please?!), but I’m not overly optimistic.

My dress! “Alika” by Bettie Page in Navy (I ordered mine through Modcloth). It’s AMAZING– super nipped-in at the waist, plenty of room through the boobs, and a skirt that flows gracefully out over my hips. While I could absolutely wear a regular bra with dark straps, I really wanted to make the pretty net yoke the star.

I’ve been incredibly frustrated trying to find a new strapless bra to wear with my dress (above) to some friends’ weddings. I tried Panache’s “Evie” basque, after seeing how beautifully it fit and supported my friend the bride (who wears a size in the D-G range), but even though this is available in my true size, the fit on me was a disaster. The cups seemed at least two sizes too small, the boning curled up on itself and rode up to rest at my waist, and it felt like the cups actually pulled my bustline downwards. I couldn’t return it fast enough, and then I began to seek out some options that I could “sister size” into.

"Deco" longline convertible bra and high-waist control brief in Ivory. Bra: 28 D-G, 30 D-GG, 32-36 B-GG, 38 B-G. Brief XS-2XL. Convertible plunge bra, molded strapless slip, short, and thong also available.

Eeesh, this picture turned out horribly– it’s much prettier in real life. Click the picture to see better images on Freya’s website. “Deco Shape” longline convertible bra and high-waist control brief in Ivory. Bra: 28 D-G, 30 D-GG, 32-36 B-GG, 38 B-G. Brief XS-2XL. Convertible plunge bra, molded strapless slip, short, and thong also available.

I’ve been really interested to try the Deco “Shape” longline convertible bra ever since it was first announced. The regular strapless Deco bra is fantastic, and I hoped the longline version would offer even more support. By pairing the longline bra with the high-waist shaping brief I wanted to get the smoothing shapewear properties of a basque or a body in a more comfortable and convenient two-piece package, and I love that I have a pretty, matching shapewear set instead of band-aid colored spandex. I found a good range of sizes in stock at Breakout Bras and placed my order, along with my new Panache bikini.

Appearance: the debut range of Deco shape comes in a pretty, smooth ivory with a pale pink floral pattern on the center panels. It would make great bridal lingerie, and yet here we are, at the end of May, and it’s been incredibly difficult to find in the U.S. Considering that brides are encouraged to have dress fittings weeks in advance, and that “wedding season” has been in full swing for a month now, this seems to be particularly poor planning on Freya’s part– the range should have been available in March at the latest. Anyway, I’m notoriously anti-white when it comes to my lingerie, and I still think this set is lovely.

Oh FREYA. You are so close. Side boning, sticky bands, and multiple points of strap adjustment? Check. A measly two sets of hooks? FAIL.

Construction: I’m super ambivalent about the design and construction of the bra. On one hand, the shape, support, and fit of the regular Deco strapless bra are all there. The cups are set very close together, a huge plus for my full and close-set boobs, and there are light side support panels inside each cup. The top of the band features a nice wide “grippy” strip, with a slightly narrower strip around the bottom of the band. Both band and cup feature two separate points on each side to attach straps, which allow for some flexibility with different necklines and top styles. There’s light vertical boning in the sides of the band for stability, and there are two columns of five rows of hooks-and-eyes. Five rows of hooks? Great! Only two columns of hooks? What gives, Freya? I’m actually kind of stunned. A brand-new bra that’s built to last should offer three columns of hooks-and-eyes, if not more, period. The band of a strapless bra, in particular, is doing more work, and there’s a chance that it will stretch out faster. Considering I’m in a slightly-too-big band size to begin with, I was pretty disappointed. That gripe aside, if I’d ordered a plain-old strapless bra, I’d be very pleased with this bra.

Well that’s . . . disappointing.

HOWEVER: this is not a longline bra. It’s not. The band extends below the underwire by a single inch.

Look, I am aware that there are some differences between a standard lingerie model’s body and my body; however, I feel pretty comfortable assuming they’re my height. I’m 5’10″, and as far as I know most commercial/mainstream models are around that height as well. So let’s look at Freya’s and Figleaves’ models, wearing my bra.

and

Call me crazy, but when I saw those bands on models who are around 5’10″, I imagined them being more in the neighborhood of three inches deep (below the underwire, that is), rather than a measly one inch. I wonder, looking at these pictures, if all of the bras, regardless of band/cup size, got the same band slapped on them. The same band on a D or E bra would in that case look significantly deeper than the band on a G or GG bra, which will have taller wires that take up more real estate. Don’t get me wrong, the bra still offers great support. It does not, however, offer the extra boost or extra smoothing properties of a true longline.

Speaking of smoothing:

Band, you are super, super wrinkly.

I’d heard that the bands on Freya’s “longlines” were prone to wrinkling and flipping up at the front. I figured, having a bit of a belly, I’d probably experience the same phenomenon. I was not expecting to see a band that puckered and flipped up even when no one was wearing it.

This is me, trying to take a picture looking straight down on the underside of the bra, whilst curving the band into the position it would hold when worn. The band is still flipping! My belly is not even there yet, bra, slow down.

Something is up with the band, clearly. It’s practically sticking straight out. It might be an issue that could be fixed with boning beneath the underwire (like in Parfait’s gorgeous longlines, which are both deeper and sturdier than Freya’s; review forthcoming), or with the addition of seams to help contour the band to lie more smoothly against the body. I’m fortunate in my short-waistedeness, for once, in that my high-rise briefs come up much higher on me than they do on the blonde model above, so I’ll be able to layer them over the bra band to help keep it in place. Otherwise I could see myself ducking away to adjust my bra constantly, and that’s no fun.

“Danielle” by Parfait, which features vertical boning directly beneath the cups to keep the longline band smooth and in place.

Fit: wrinkly annoyingness aside, the fit is lovely. I’m not getting a perfect tack at the center gore when I wear it strapless, but then again I’m in a sister size (I went one band size up and one cup size down from my usual Panache/Eveden size) and my boobs are heavy. When I wear it with the straps the fit is nearly spot-on. The Deco strapless doesn’t offer the dizzyingly plunge-y cleavage of the classic version, but in terms of shape, projection, support, and lift, I’ve yet to find a better strapless bra for the full-bust market.

I really, REALLY like the shaping briefs, and no matter what I decide to do about the bra, I’m definitely keeping the briefs. They’re a new product for Freya, and they’re great. There’s ruching along the vertical center back seam for contouring and shape, the legline is laser-cut in the rear to avoid panty lines, and the waistband is lined with the same silicon grippy bands that appear on the bra, to keep it from rolling down. They won’t cinch your waist in like a girdle or more vigorous shapewear would, but they definitely give a lovely, smooth shape under clingier outfits. I see myself getting a LOT of use out of these, and I can’t wait until Freya offers a darker colorway!

Verdict: It’s good. It’s definitely (very) good compared to what else is out there, which isn’t much, but I confess that I’d really hoped for more. Ideally I’d love to have the option of a convertible bra that’s a cross between this (alleged) longline and a full-length basque, with maybe six-to-eight rows of hooks and a sturdier band that truly acts as shapewear. Apart from Curvy Kate’s planned strapless bra for 2014, I don’t really see many new strapless options on the horizon for the GG+ market (correct me if I’m wrong though, because I’d love to hear about more). I have another strapless bra in a sister size on order from A Sophisticated Pair, so I’ll be really interested to compare the two when it arrives. I know Elomi plans to offer a beautiful strapless bridal range up to at least an H-cup this year, but it’s launching in August . . . just in time to miss summer/wedding season. Good call, Elomi.

Deco Shape is available at Figleaves, Breakout Bras, Leia Lingerie, and Bravissimo (plunge bra only).

[UPDATE: Amy reviewed the Deco Shape longline in a smaller size for Fussy Busty earlier this month.]

Have you tried a longline bra? Do you have a favorite brand or style? Am I justified in being disappointed, or am I asking too much?

Sweet Nothings Du Jour: 5/22/13 Bravissimo’s Summer Collection

Posted on May 22, 2013 by Sweets

Well, well, well. Bravissimo just released some of their new summer styles, and I don’t want to say that they designed them JUST for me, or anything, but really, let’s look at the evidence:

“Boudoir Beau” in Ivory/Raspberry. 28 E-J, 30-38 DD-K

I’ve been asking for a new colorway of Boudoir Beau ever since I fell in love with the green version, and here’s a sweet Raspberry.

“Candy Bliss”. 28 DD-J, 30-38 DD-K.

A pretty new style with a delicate floral print and sheer/polka dot panels.

“Sweet Bon Bon”. 28-38 DD-J.

Notice a theme yet? Also, [insert customary approval of all things polka-dotted].

“Cherry Fling”. 28 E-J, 30-38 DD-K.

THIS IS BASICALLY MY FAVORITE EVER.

It seems like SOMEONE wants Sweets to buy all the dessert-themed bras ever and pair them with recipes. I see what you’re doing, Bravissimo. I’m onto you. I will not be seduced by your wily tricks.

Except I totally will. Cherry bra, you will be mine.

In all seriousness, I’m increasingly impressed with the quality and creativity of Bravissimo’s own lingerie designs. All of their new-season styles include G+ sizes, and several include J+. Alana is available up to an L cup in a pretty new Aqua shade, Sweet Bon Bon is ~~(I think) their first~~ (as Astrid reminds me below, their second) half-cup up to a J-cup, and the popular Rococo Charm bra has returned in a bright, summery coral. I am a little surprised to see how few options there are for 28 backs over a J cup: Bravissimo only carries two styles, and both are by Panache. I know that demand for 28JJs and 28Ks is probably significantly lower than other sizes, but it would be nice for women who wear those sizes to have options besides white, beige, and black, even if it’s just one option. That concern aside, the summer collection reflects a good balance of styles: half cups, balconettes, and plunges, bright, cheerful colors, and whimsical prints, as well as bra-sized camisole and halter tops in an array of colors, now up to H cups (although still no 28 backs).

Both Bravissimo and Pepperberry seem to really shine when their collections reflect a cohesive theme (as Pepperberry’s 2012 Autumn 1940s-influenced collection did). If the theme of Bravissimo’s Spring release was florals, the theme for Summer is most definitely sweetness. I know it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but while I wouldn’t want my entire lingerie drawer crammed full of pink and frills, I’m already dreaming of raspberry ice creams, cherry pies, pink meringues, lemon cookies …

****

Bravissimo’s full summer collection, including styles from other full-bust brands like Panache, Cleo, and Freya, is available here.

Full-Bust Wishlist: Dresses Edition

Posted on March 27, 2013 by Sweets

I had a much harder time writing this post than I did the Full-Bust Wishlist for lingerie. Our wardrobes vary SO MUCH depending on climate, lifestyle, age, personal style, coloring, income . . . I could go on and on. If I say “a plunge bra” or “a longline bra” we’ll generally think of similar things, but if I say “a maxi dress” or “a sundress” or even “a suit” the choices, cuts, colors, fabrics, trims, shapes and styles expand exponentially. I started to make this a general all-clothing wishlist, but it got a little more personal in that some things that affect my shopping (my height, my broad shoulders, my unabashed love for all things dresses) may not affect other full-bust women. I’d love to hear what’s on other ladies’ wishlists!

* * * * *

Right now I’m feeling particularly cranky about clothes, especially as I have a few events coming up this summer for which I know I’ll want to be well-dressed. Yes, I know, I’m a giant. My shoulders and back have broadened a bit from pole dancing, and they weren’t exactly delicate to begin with. I cannot buy hats or gloves in most stores. Finding pants that are long enough and shoes that are big enough in a brick-and-mortar store, instead of just online, is a never-ending-probably-fruitless quest (and the fact remains that I’m only 5’10″. There are plenty of taller women out there, so I know my struggles could be worse). I’ll try to forbear complaining about everything, and focus on my most pressing wishes:

Trixie Playsuit by Trashy Diva. Super cute, and super close. It probably WILL work for lots of full-busted women, but between my full-bust and my taller/broader frame, there just isn't enough room in the bust for a good, comfortable fit.

Trixie Playsuit by Trashy Diva. Super cute, and super close to working. It probably WILL work for lots of full-bust women, but between my full-bust and my taller/broader frame, there just isn’t enough room for a good, comfortable fit.

I just want a motherfreaking sundress. This has been my rallying cry every summer for years now. YEARS. It gets hot and humid in Virginia, it gets hot and humid (and smelly) in New York. I want a cotton, breathable, non-linen (who wants to iron on a 97-degree day? Seriously) sleeveless sundress that I can wear a bra (strapless or otherwise) with. If you add a synthetic lining, or actually, ANY lining other than more cotton, to an otherwise breezy dress I will smack you across the face, because you have just ruined it.

Scratch that, I just want ALL the motherfreaking sundresses. I want casual sundresses for beach days, maxi dresses for fashion-y/I-didn’t-feel-like-shaving/boozy brunch days, formal dresses for summer weddings, and breathable work dresses that don’t make my commute a sweltering hell. Pepperberry just released a button-front cotton sundress, which I confess is adorable (minus the print– all-over floral can be really tough), but I got burned so badly on return shipping with my last order that I’m hesitant to order it.

Chroma Shadow Sheath by Anthropologie. Flattering and youthful sweetheart neckline, a knee-length that is actually knee-length, sassy cobalt-blue back, work-and-wedding-appropriate. Zipped everywhere except my boobs, made me cry.

Chroma Shadow Sheath by Anthropologie. This is lined in acetate, not cotton, but it is otherwise so great. Flattering and youthful sweetheart neckline, surprisingly chic floral print, length the same on the model as it is on me, sassy cobalt-blue back, work-and-wedding-appropriate. Zipped everywhere except my boobs, made me cry.

I also wouldn’t mind some shoulder-baring dresses that are constructed to fit my boobs in conjunction with a strapless or convertible bra (see: weddings, above). In my imagination I see one in cute nautical stripes with a sweetheart neckline, appropriate for beaches, picnics, and summer parties, but frankly I’d take any that fit well (and was neither beige nor yellow).

Orange Repartee Sweetheart Dress from Anthropologie (now sold out, but they release pretty much the same dress every few months). Cute solo, cute paired with a cardigan or blazer, cotton lining, cute cute cute. Elastic back? NO, GAH. Even on the beautiful, quite slim model you can see that it's bunching. I want a strapless dress that's constructed to FIT, not to make do.

Orange Repartee Sweetheart Dress from Anthropologie (now sold out, but they release pretty much the same dress every few months). Cute solo, can be paired with a cardigan or blazer, cotton lining, cute cute cute. Elastic back? NO, GAH. Even on the beautiful, quite slim model you can see that it’s bunching and drooping. I want a strapless dress that’s constructed to FIT, not to make do.

I adore the dresses from Trashy Diva like the Trixie dress (similar to the playsuit above), but even though they are in general curve-friendly, the bust is still not deep, full, or contoured enough to contain the apparent majesty of my boobs. I used to get annoyed at the ubiquity of strapless dresses, but they really can be so pretty, flattering, and cool and I WANTS ONE.

“Akebono” Halter Dress by Girls From Savoy, via Anthropologie (sold out)

“Sincerely Paris” Halter Dress by Girls From Savoy, via Anthropologie (also sold out). It’s covered in POSTAGE STAMPS, y’all. It’s so twee and adorable and kinda dumb and I still love it

First I’d need a longline strapless bra that smooths to wear under them (as I mentioned in my lingerie Wishlist), and then I want a gorgeous strapless, halter or cross-back dress, cut straight through the back and curvy at the front. I don’t want to size up and up and up just to fit my boobs, and then wind up with weird gapping and bunching around the back and waist and too much length in the torso. I want something that FITS my body, not just something that covers it.

Let’s move on from sundresses to . . . more dresses! Sorry, I’m gonna be a one-note song here. I love dresses, and I live in them. I know they’re not everyone’s cup of tea, in terms of either their personal or their professional style, but I have never been a white-button-down-shirt-and-trousers kind of lady. Even when I find button-down shirts that fit, I’m just not drawn to them. Dresses suit my personal look, my professional dress code, and my occasional early-morning laziness (ugh, who has time to put an outfit together?). With a dress, I only have to worry about finding one garment that fits my goofy body; with a layered outfit built from multiple pieces I have to worry about finding 3-5 pieces that fit. I’d love to have a classic, easy shirtdress with an A-line skirt and non-capped sleeves that isn’t mumsy or frumpy. Some of the full-bust lines have designed some very nice shirt-dresses, but they tend to have an aggressively retro/pin-up feel (think Pin Up Girl) or a very straight-laced and severe finish (think Pepperberry). I don’t mind a vintage look, but I want one that’s a little more relaxed.

Pocket Tie-Waist Shirtdress by Gap. Put in a real waistband and get rid of the boob pockets (whyyyy boob pockets noooo), and I’d take one in every color.

“Effortlessness” can feel tricky to come by if you’re dressing a full bust; I, for example, don’t feel comfortable just throwing on any old slouchy, relaxed top. I’m frustrated that when it comes to a comfy dress, it feels like my only choice is of the pin-up persuasion. It’s a style I love on other women, but I don’t love it on me: I feel like I’m wearing a costume, and between my height and the style I tend to feel very, very self-conscious and conspicuous. A shirtdress can be a relaxed and put-together one-stop outfit, dressed up with heels or wedges and dressed down with sandals or sneakers. It’s the sort of thing I wear in my imaginary life where I frequent farmers’ markets and run into cute boys at used bookstores and ride bikes with baguettes and bottles of wine in the front basket. In reality I have ridden a bike once in NYC and am in no way inclined to do it again.

This next wishlist item is admittedly more personal-to-Sweets rather than to the full-bust community at large, but bear with me:

Cross Front Maxi Dress by Pepperberry. 138 cm just isn’t long enough. It bugs the heck out of me to see a dress that hits the model an inch or two below her knee, only to have it arrive in the USA and hit me three inches over the knee.

Dear designers: People can hem things. We can’t magically grow them. I know that getting things hemmed and altered is a pain for a lot of folks, believe me. If I had to worry constantly about getting everything hemmed, waists raised, sleeves shortened, etc., it would get unbearably old. But I can’t miraculously add four-to-six inches to make skirts and sleeves long enough. I can’t buy a too-short dress or a miniature blazer and think “ugh, annoying, but that’s what my tailor’s for.” The only time this has ever worked was when I was a bridesmaid and J. Crew special-ordered a damaged dress to send me with my proper one, so that my seamstress-friend and I could use the damaged one for extra fabric. I’m not saying you need to make everything Sweets-proportioned, but some varying skirt lengths would be amazing.

I just collapsed and died of apoplexy in the middle of the Grand Central post office last week because I had to return the entirety of a Pepperberry order and it cost me 60 freaking dollars to mail back to the UK.

Mock Wrap Jersey Dress by Pepperberry. Yeah, this dress is not REMOTELY this long. I have no doubt that Pepperberry’s models are in the 5’8″ to 5’11″ neighborhood, which is my hood as well. How come they get the special extra-long ones? (Sigh, I know why, because they’re modeling what it will look like on a woman of more average height, but still)

I hadn’t placed this order willy-nilly. I had very, very carefully analyzed my current wardrobe, evaluated the available pieces on the website, looked at what had worked well for me in the past, and ordered judiciously. I was deeply disappointed with almost everything. I was hesitating on keeping some pieces anyway because of ongoing quality inconsistencies (the buttons on the red blazer– yikes), but the shortness of sleeves and skirts did me in (as did the fact that I ordered the same sizes as last time and everything was much smaller this time and Pepperberry you’re killing me with the quality control, come on). Pepperberry just released their lovely black maxi dress (above), and I would have ordered and worn the hell out of it during a NYC summer, except it’s phenomenally, hilariously too short. I might order it anyway and have an awkwardly mid-calf dress, but . . . GRUMBLE.

So what can we do, if we don’t find clothes to suit our tastes, needs, and budgets? Well, first of all, leave reviews. Send messages. Tell designers and stores what you’d like to see. Second of all, try, try, and try again. Give custom-measurement sites like eShakti a whirl. I ordered a bunch of custom-made clothes from eShakti before going to Bangkok and returned them all, not for issues of quality, which was excellent, but because there was no measurement requested to account for torso length, so all of the clothes were far too long-waisted for me. If I place another order, I plan on emailing first to see if I can provide additional measurements to correct this issue. Try styles, stores, sizes, and shapes you might never have thought of. Every once in a while the elusive, magical item of full-bust friendly clothing you never thought you’d find turns up in your size and color, and you clutch it to your (magnificent) bosom and shower its upturned face with burning kisses.

Final wish: I want pretty much everything the Duchess of Cambridge has ever worn, just designed for my boobs. Especially the gowns. All of the gowns. You know, for my life, where I go to gown-appropriate events constantly. I’d also like her hair on my head, but I don’t expect miracles here, people.

Dispatches from CurveNY

Posted on March 2, 2013 by Sweets

New York City was the place to be last weekend for lingerie lovers. Between LingerieFW, the USA debut of the Lingerie Collective, and CurveNY, I’m still having trouble processing everything I saw and learned. I was absolutely stunned by the enthusiasm, creativity, kindness, and brilliance of all of the designers and brands I met and saw. From what I understand, bloggers attending Curve as Press is still a very new thing, yet most of the brand representatives I met with were at the very least polite and more usually were eager and interested in speaking to me. I got to preview the styles that will be available in stores beginning in the Fall of 2013 through Winter 2013, ask questions, handle samples, and view them on the models.

I met at least three of my readers, and they WERE NOT MY FAMILY MEMBERS. Repeat: they were new people. Oh, it was so wonderful. Laura came and found me at the Eveden fit event to show off her red Urkye dress, and she looked stunning. The ladies from Helen of Troy Bras joined me at the fit event and we dished about bras and shared reading recommendations. Lovely reader/new New Yorker “Ellie” emailed me Friday night and was able to join me for lunch on Saturday with Lindsay from That Je Ne Sais Quoi, Angela Friedman of, you know, Angela Friedman, Caro from The Lingerie Lesbian, Darlene from Hourglassy, and both Mister and Miss Underpinnings, where we screamed at each other about bras and brands and breast tissue and underwires, and I’m sure we were a delight to our fellow diners. Meeting other women (and men) who geek out about lingerie is seriously fun and frankly inspiring. I love the different points of view, the different backgrounds, and the different know-how each person brings to the party. We’re planning trips around the city to meet each other’s cats and bake together, and yes, we’re disgusting.

They made me get on Twitter! I didn’t want to, because it would be one more distraction at work, but I’m so glad I did. Through Twitter I met the designer of a brand-new, highly directional line (more below) and talked with her for over an hour about lingerie, the full-bust market, cup sizes, pole dancing, and self-esteem. Through Twitter I went to see Layla, creator and designer of Between the Sheets, and previewed her astoundingly gorgeous range of lingerie and loungewear. Through Twitter I visited Angela at her atelier, got fitted into a sample corset, and made her tell me about her time working in the shop at New York City Ballet.

Corsets, waspies, and lingerie by Angela Friedman.

She and I left and went to the Lingerie Collective to chat with luxury designers like the incredibly sweet and brilliant Stephanie of Dottie’s Delights (I GOT TO TRY ON THE FROOFY ROBE. Dreams do come true!), the amazing Dani of FYI by Dani Read, and Marika herself of Marika Vera, who shared that designing for the fuller-figured market is one of her goals for the near future. From there we went to a party for Maison Close that included tiny cupcakes and an adorable, sizzling burlesque dancer.

Burlesque, champagne, and mini cupcakes at Maison Close.

I pelted brand representatives with questions and received amazing, enthusiastic, and caring answers. There’s no way I could recap everything in detail, but I’m going to try to hit the major points in my next few posts, but for today, here are some teasers:

1. Things We Learned: I really love all the undies. I squealed over almost everything: all the pieces, all the styles, all the price points, all the colors. Not everything matched my personal style, but what was fun was seeing such an enormous range of styles to suit a great number of tastes. Miss Underpinnings has already done some great coverage of Freya, Fantasie, and Fauve, all Eveden brands, as well as Empreinte, and I really encourage you to check them out (also, she has a real camera, so her pictures might be an eeeensy bit better than mine). There have never been more sizes, styles, and new brands available than there are right now, and it’s incredibly inspiring. Women of all shapes and sizes who like to experiment with their sense of style have the opportunity to do so with abandon, and women who have found their fashion niche and want to stick to it have multiple designers to turn to.

New colors for “Dessous” by Claudette

3. Best new discovery: Kitten Kouture. More info to follow, but the line offers fun, sassy, 1960s-1970s-inspired silk, mesh and lace lingerie in popping colors, contrasting trims, and luscious silk. There are lovely retro designs like high-waisted knickers and longline bras, but other designs get a hit of modernity from unexpected colors, zingy prints, or flirty details like marabou-trimmed side-ties. Certain styles are ready to go up to an F cup, and Franceska, the designer, spoke to me extensively about her desire to launch into larger cup sizes.

Kitten Kouture

4. Best new style: Shut up, like I’d pick just one. Silver glitter polka dots on the “Twinkle Bomb” style from Mimi Holliday, the spirited zig-zag patterns from Dottie’s Delights, elegant blue with gray lace “Clara” from Panache Superbra, “Oh La La” from Freya, and the new Panache Sports Bra colors all thrilled me, but if you made me name the one set I was going to purchase for sure, it would be the black “Marcie” babydoll from Cleo, hands-down. I’m also very interested to try the Deco Shape, but the first colorway is about to hit stores in April, so it wasn’t a main focus of the Eveden preview.

Dotty L'Amour by Mimi Holliday. What, I liked polka dots?!?! What a crazy random happenstance.

“Twinkle Bomb” by Mimi Holliday. What, I liked a style with polka dots?!?! What a crazy random happenstance.

“Clara” by Panache Superbra, available in sizes 30-38 D-J

“Marcie” babydoll by Cleo, aka The Precious. Available in sizes 28-38 D-J

5. Best news: Mimi Holliday Does Maternity! In addition to launching a new completely adorable range of cotton swimwear, Mimi Holliday will release a lovely, LOVELY nursing bra in the new “Dotty L’Amour” range (sweet white dots backed with pale pink), “Dotty Noir” (deep midnight blue), and “Bon Bon Noir” (black lace), as well as their classic “Bisou Bisou” range in Rose.

“Bisou Bisou Rose” nursing bra, with the cup released.

The silk and lace are unbelievably luxurious yet also smooth, silky, and comfortable (I mean, seriously. I just sort of petted things before getting it together to take pictures. The sea of gorgeous, gorgeous lingerie was a bit overwhelming for a second).

“Dotty Noir” nursing bra, with the cup closed.

Sometimes nursing bras can veer from the dull and dour to excessively “sexified”. Like, yes, pregnant and nursing women are lovely and womanly and fierce, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they’re eager to hop on stage and perform a striptease. Mimi strikes a gorgeous balance between pretty and practical. The initial size release is a scaled down version of Mimi’s famously vast size range (32D-FF, 34D-FF, 36D-E), but one thing I learned over and over again was that brands have to introduce new styles slowly to get the word out. If Mimi Maternity is a hit, as it should be, hopefully the size range will expand in the future.

* * * * *

Love all the great colors for the Panache sports bra. I told the ladies at the Panache booth how great it was for pole dancing, because your boobs don't fall out when you go upside down. I got mixed reactions.

Love all the great new colors for the Panache sports bra. I told the ladies at the Panache booth how great it was for pole dancing, because your boobs don’t fall out when you go upside down. I got mixed reactions.

I feel so, so fortunate to have been able to attend CurveNY. The lingerie world is in a very exciting place right now; classic brands are expanding their size and style ranges to serve more and more customers, new brands are appearing with ever more innovative designs and artistic voices, and social media is empowering customers to keep brands and stores in the loop about their wants and needs. Having seen the astounding range of offerings for A/W 2013, I can’t wait to return to CurveNY in six months to see how these offerings change and evolve for Spring/Summer 2014. Thanks so much to all of the brand reps who took time out from meeting with buyers to speak with me, and thanks to my new blog buddies for showing me the ropes!

Lingerie Fashion Week Day 2: Uye Surana and Affinitas/Parfait

Posted on February 27, 2013 by Sweets

It feels churlish to say this, but I almost wish some of the events of Lingerie Fashion Week had been scheduled differently. The first three events (the first runway show and first gallery presentation) were so unbelievably strong that they made it a bit hard for the later acts to follow. One of the later events was lovely and I think will look even stronger in retrospect without being compared to its predecessors, while the final act … well, I’ll get to it. I HAVE THOUGHTS.

Uye Surana

I have been really interested to see the emphasis on loungewear (robes, chemises, camisoles, babydolls and the like) at this past weekend’s lingerie events. I may have a warped perspective since, as a full-bust lady, my boobs are my primary focus, both in terms of my lingerie budget and in terms of my interests, but my loungewear tends to be an afterthought (as in, I often just sleep in t-shirts or whatever underwear I wore that day. And now I feel slovenly). Having seen the gallery presentations on Saturday, however, I’m becoming more and more curious. Uye Surana, like Bijte, Naked Princess, Kriss Soonik, and others, is a lingerie/loungewear hybrid line, made in New York, that melds lingerie, daywear, and loungewear, creating versatile pieces that can be integrated into everyday outfits and interesting lingerie ensembles. It’s a tricky market, for me. As a full bust customer, my money tends to go to underwired bras, which have to win me over completely before I’ll even consider purchasing any of the accessories. “Loungerie” has to absolutely wow me from a fit, construction, technique, and design standpoint, and a lot of it just isn’t my cup of tea.

That being said (wow, I’m probably the least fun customer ever), the Uye Surana presentation was lovely. The brand is made in the USA, and the collection featured some of my favorite colors- a lovely bright magenta and rich, saturated blues.

Uye Surana

The pieces are clean and simple. Having seen the A/W 2013 full-bust collections, many of which featured elegant embroidery or punchy prints, the spare, relaxed shapes and luscious, uninterrupted colors feel easy, confident, and feminine, yet still a bit edgy.

Uye Surana

I kept coming back to this fun high-low slip and bralette. It’s a very spare, simple concept with a touch of whimsy in the shape. It would be fun and flirty to see it floating from under a straighter skirt, or layered over a colored skirt to dress up an otherwise basic look.

I love the almost athletic, sporty look on the model in the center, with her blue bralette and lighter brief. The look is coordinated with out being overly matchy. That being said, the side view of the pieces illustrates one of my major reservations about the collection. Apart from the bralettes and briefs, I found that the chemises and babydolls looked a little, well, like sacks. The shape is loose and unstructured, and it falls straight from the breasts, with no hint of the body beneath. As lovely as the black chemise above is (and it IS lovely– the black fabric is slightly sheer and ripples and waves with the body’s movement), it holds absolutely no appeal for me as part of my personal wardrobe. I don’t think every garment has to be form-fitting or ultra supportive, and indeed I’d hate for ALL loungewear to insist on all-hourglass figures all the time, but I also prefer to see some tailoring, draping, and thoughts for flattery in a piece. I think these pieces will look stunning on woman with a very slim frame and a very particular style, but they didn’t grab me personally the way the earlier collections did.

But oh, this color is scrumptious.

Saturday evening’s closing show was another runway presentation, this time from popular brands Affinitas & Parfait. Each brand offers bras and lingerie in sizes 30-38; Affinitas offers cup sizes A-DD, and Parfait offers cup sizes D-G (UK sizing). They’ve made quite a splash with their ultra-feminine colors and patterns and playful shapes (including bras, babydolls, basques, and longline bras), and their eminently reasonable prices help to amplify the appeal. I was looking forward to seeing the new collection, as I hadn’t seen many sets in person, and I was interested to see where the two lines diverged, or whether there was a strong sense of overall continuity between the ranges. I also hoped for an outstanding production. Sometimes full-bust brands can feel a little behind-the-times trend-wise or a little “safe.” I was interested to see if Affinitas would take advantage of the runway format to make a statement or tell a story, the way the FYI by Dani Read show did.

From the minute I saw this set (Affinitas’ “Georgina”) described as “Skin Nude” in the press packets, I felt a sense of foreboding. Once again, everyone, say it with me: Beige is NOT NUDE. No one’s skin is beige. This model, whose beauty truly made me gasp, is not beige. She’s wearing a pale, creamy almond-colored bra, and she looks absolutely, mind-blowingly lovely in it, but it is not the color of her skin, or indeed most people’s skin. Don’t make pretty lingerie terrible by calling it “Skin Nude” (ick).

I tried to shake off my discomfort and focus on the show. The models were all lovely, and fairly diverse in size and shape. I enjoyed seeing some new pieces, particularly Affinitas’ lovely “Charlize” chemise in Cream/Tan, with its discreet Swiss dots dressing up an otherwise simple shape and color.

My runway/smartphone photo was TERRIBLE. So you get the official PR shot instead.

However, as the show continued, the critic in me got louder than the lingerie enthusiast. The models looked bored, and their hair and makeup was pretty, but generic, to say the least. There was no styling, and there were no accessories; the music was aimless. I kept glancing down at my show notes, waiting for the Parfait segment to start, eager to see how the full-bust bras and other lingerie pieces fit.

“Mae” padded camisole by Afffinitas

I don’t have much to say about the styles that Miss Underpinnings didn’t cover in her excellent review (with much better pictures than mine). Several favorites have returned, including Charlotte in a really, really pretty dusty rose, against which the black seams just sing. There are two new babydolls, one with lace-covered padded cups and the other in an unpadded, floral style, and an excellent assortment of padded and cut-and-sew bras. New style “Celine” comes in black and purple with white polka dots, and both color ranges include a cute bra-sized camisole. Why am I still cranky?

The Danielle longline returns, this time in purple, and I LOVE it.

Almost none of the Parfait models wore lingerie that fit them.

Bands were hooked on the tightest hooks and rode up between shoulder blades. Cups wrinkled and gaped, with enough room in each cup for some snacks. One model went down the runway in a pair of knickers at least two sizes too large for her that threatened to fall off before she made it backstage. Molded cups perched awkwardly in front of breasts that did not fill them; unlined cups drooped unhelpfully. The bras looked insecure, ill-fitting, uncomfortable, and, worse, cheap and generic. Having seen Parfait’s designs in person a few days later, I have to say that this impression does the brand a disservice.

At Curve I saw a collection full of thought, interest, and attention to detail. There’s a nice sense of relationship between Affinitas and Parfait, in terms of colors and shapes, yet each stands distinctly on its own. There are multiple style options in each range, so that women can pick and choose the bras and accessories that suit them best. One runway model suggested this sense of independent fun when she lifted the skirt of her babydoll to flash her brightly flowered knickers for the LingerieFW photographers. Many styles are retro-inspired with a fun modern kick– the longline bra is bright purple satin with subdued, silvery-gray lace, the briefs have sexy lace details, and pieces are trimmed with contrasting buttons instead of the expected bow or rosette. I keep wondering what impression Parfait could have made with some retro/pin-up makeup and hair styling, or hats, or parasols, or accessories, or an interesting, cheeky musical score (Fräulein Annie, for example, gets it oh-so-right in their swimwear video). I left the show feeling that Parfait had an opportunity to present a strong message to the fashion world that full-busts were worthy of interesting, directional, high-fashion design. Unfortunately, they wasted that opportunity.

I feel badly knocking the runway show, because each season’s collection is getting better and better. There are a few “safe” options, like the all-over lace padded bras, but there are also full-bust customers who will prefer those styles over the more unusual ones. Parfait has been bold about introducing new styles that take other brands a few seasons or even a few years to introduce (longlines, babydolls, high-waist knickers, etc.), trying unusual and unexpected color combinations, and bringing out interesting coordinates with suspenders and the like that are usually absent from “budget-friendly” lingerie. When I spoke with their brand representative, she confirmed that there are plans to expand the cup size range in future seasons, potentially up to a UK K-cup, although she didn’t have a specific release date ready to share. I’d advise someone interested in trying Parfait to seek it out in person, rather than relying on images from the runway show or even the catalogue (correctly-sized samples weren’t available for the model at the time of the shoot, and as such the fit isn’t shown to its best advantage in the press images either). Parfait is becoming more and more widely available; I’d love to see representations of good bra fitting follow suit.

Previous Lingerie Fashion Week Coverage:

LingerieFW Day #1
LingerieFW Day#2, Part 1

Brand Introduction: Panache Superbra

Posted on December 21, 2012 by Sweets

Panache is a huge market leader in the full-bust lingerie industry, and, along with Freya, they’re usually one of the first full-bust brands many North American women encounter. Founded in 1982, Panache now includes five brands: Superbra (basics and basics-with-a-twist), Cleo (bright, colorful, whimsical designs), Masquerade (sometimes known as Harlequin in the US, slightly more sophisticated materials and shapes at slightly higher price points), Panache Swimwear, and Panache Sport (fave. sports bra. ever.), with Sculptresse (for the full-figured full-bust customer, wonderful preview at A Sophisticated Pair) coming some time in 2013. I covered Cleo a while ago, because I’m kind of obsessed with them, but the Superbra line deserves mention and applause for its quality, fit, support, and size range. Panache was one of the first brands to introduce a K-cup and is one of the few big lingerie brands to offer a KK-cup. Superbra includes seamless basics, pretty lace/mesh seamed styles, and a few maternity options. Superbra may not be as glamorous or flashy as some of her sister brands, but the shape and support really can’t be beat.

While a few new styles come and go each year, there are a host of continuity styles available each season, which is nice for those who find their perfect bra and want to keep wearing it forever and ever. Here are some of the tried-and-true staples Superbra offers.

Tango Balconette and Tango Plunge

“Tango” balconette bra by Panache. Available in sizes 28-40 D-K (UK).

Tango is one of Panache’s longest-running styles, and it’s available every season without fail in basic as well as fashion colors.

“Tango” Plunge bra by Panache. Available in sizes 28-38 D-H (UK).

The plunge bra is really outstanding, in my experience. Most plunge bras I see on the market give dramatic, luscious cleavage, which is fine and all (great even!), but if you’re wearing a dress with a deeper neckline to, say, work or a religious service, it’s nice to have a bra cut low enough so that the bra won’t show, but discreet enough so that you don’t feel self-conscious.

Sienna

“Sienna” by Panache. Available in sizes 28-38 D-K.

Sienna is a popular unlined balconette bra in satin with a lace overlay. It’s a great example of a basic bra that’s been a bit dressed up with lace and seasonal colors. It’s come and gone from the rotation a few times, shown up in multiple colors, and it even made an appearance as a basque for a few seasons.

“Sienna” basque. Notice that the cup is constructed slightly differently (no sheer upper section). The straps are removable for wear under strapless dresses. Limited sizes still available on sale.

The current season’s offering is the beautiful teal-blue “Lagoon” color, shown above.

Porcelain and Porcelain Viva

“Porcelain” Balconette. Available in sizes 28-38 D-G

Molded-cup devotees will be delighted to learn that the Porcelain range offers a few different basic styles, including a balconette, a plunge, and a strapless bra.

“Porcelain” Plunge bra. Available in sizes 28-38 D-H.

“Porcelain” strapless bra. Available in sizes 28-38 D-G

“Porcelain Viva” in Charcoal. 30-38 D-G, also available in black, ivory, beige, and ruby

“Viva” is the same shape as the basic Porcelain, offering some stripes and lace detail. While I loved the Porcelain strapless before I switched to Freya’s strapless deco, the balconette never agreed with me. I find the cups too wide and shallow for my shape, but I know others who swear by it. I hadn’t realized the plunge version came in a wider size range, and I’d be curious to try it!

Melody

“Melody” balconette bra. Available in sizes 28-40 D-KK, 42 D-J, 44 DD-FF (UK).

Melody is a fairly new style, but it offers Panache’s largest size range. The balconette bra (above) is available in black, white, beige, and a fashion color every season, and the full-cup bra is available in black, white, and beige.

“Melody” full-cup bra, available in sizes 30-40 D-KK (UK).

Both the full-cup and the balconette bra are available up to KK cups consistently, so for some women, these are some of the few bras available in their size year-round.

Andorra and Jasmine

“Andorra” Balconette bra. Available in sizes 28-40 D-J (UK).

“Andorra” plunge bra. Available in sizes 28-38 D-H (UK)

Erica of A Sophisticated Pair won me over on the Andorra. A sort of cross between a full-cup style and a balconette, Andorra is an unlined seamed balconette whose bottom sections are made of a stiffer, supportive mesh, while the top section is made of a wonderfully soft stretch lace that accommodates fuller-on-top breasts and monthly breast size fluctuations. It’s consistently available in black, white, and beige, and the full-cup and plunge style, which I’m itching to try, are available in a seasonal fashion color.

“Jasmine” Balconette bra. Available in sizes 28-40 D-J.

Jasmine is based on the same shape with the same stretch lace, and arrived this past season in a beautiful bird print. Erica previewed a fun, poppy floral print for next season that is already on my wishlist.

Camisole

Cami-Top. Available in sizes 30-38 D-H.

Own it, love it. More colors please!

Ariza

“Ariza” balconette bra. Available in sizes 28-40 D-K (UK).

I haven’t tried Ariza yet, but some of the recent color combinations, especially the black and pink above, have been seriously appealing to me. A sturdy seamed bra made of the same strong mesh Panache uses in many of their other styles, it looks like a breathable, practical-yet-pretty, comfy bra.

“Ariza” in teal

Sophie Nursing bra and Soft Cup Bra

“Sophie” Soft Cup Bra by Panache. Available in sizes 28-40 D-J (UK). £29.00. Matching short and brief available, sizes 08-18 (UK). £12.50-14.50. Also available in Pink/White. Nursing Bra £29.00, sizes 28-40 D-J (UK).

Sophie was one of my holiday picks for new mothers, because I think it’s just really, really pretty. I have lots of women ask me about sleep bras and sleep preferences, and the soft-cup bra, with its cotton lining and pretty lace, would be a really good option for someone looking for a little wire-free nighttime support. The coordinating nursing bra and low-cut short are lovely. It’s consistently available in some basic colors, with a few fashion colors popping up occasionally.

“Sophie” in Pink and White.

Is Panache for everyone? Well, no, of course not, that would be silly. Here are some things to watch out for if you’re trying a Panache bra for the first time.

Some customers find that Panache’s wires are too wide for them. The wires wrap too far around and begin heading to their backs, instead of neatly encircling breast tissue. I have never had a problem with the center gores (Cleo, in particular, suits my shape to a T), but if you find that, no matter what size you try, the underwires still won’t fit you right, you may need to try a different Panache style or move on to a different brand altogether.
Speaking of wires, Panache got quite a reputation there for a bit for underwires that would stab you mercilessly in the armpit. Depending on a woman’s stature, she might either find the wires extra-super supportive or physically painful. I had a Cleo bra a while back that I couldn’t wear on a day when I’d be moving a lot, like if I was packing or doing a lot of housework. I’d be rubbed raw at the end of the day, and my skin would be red and chafed. I have not had this problem with later Cleo bras, and the great news is that Panache has made design changes in their latest lines to lower the wires and improve the comfort for women who wear G+ cups.
Some people, myself included, sometimes find the straps too thin, particularly in fuller cup sizes. They tend to curl up on themselves and dig into your shoulders, instead of helping to disburse the weight of the breast across the width of the strap. Some styles have fixed this (Marcie by Cleo, for example, has thicker, ribbed straps that lie flat), but in other styles (Andorra among them) it can be quite painful.

That being said, I’d always encourage a full-bust customer to try as many different brands as she can. Each brand, or each brand’s individual styles, will fit and support every woman differently at different times. When I wore a different size, I preferred Freya over Panache, but in the last few years, I’ve increasingly chosen Panache or Cleo bras over Freya, just because my fit and support needs have changed. Panache is committed to creating affordable, high-quality, comfortable, well-fitting, attractive bras, they’re active in social media, and they listen to customer feedback. Check them out!

Panache Superbra is available at Nordstrom, Figleaves, Townshop, Bravissimo, Bare Necessities, FreshPair, A Sophisticated Pair, Butterfly Collection, and more.

Have you tried Panache? Do you have any favorite styles?

Nutcracker Sweets Act II: 5 Holiday Picks for Fuller Busts

Posted on December 10, 2012 by Sweets

Welcome, my sisters, to a list of the things that are currently taunting me. Me and my credit card.

Note: for purposes of this post, “full-bust” refers to bras in sizes 28-38, from a D-cup to at least a UK G-cup. Many of the bras below also come in additional sizes.

I love this I love this I love this I want this.

"Boudoir Beau" Bra by Bravissimo (exclusive) in Emerald (other colors available). Sizes 28-38 DD-K. £30.00. Shorts (£17.00), Thong (£15.00) available in sizes XS-2XL.

“Boudoir Beau” Bra by Bravissimo (exclusive) in Emerald (other colors available). Sizes 28-38 DD-K (UK). £30.00. Shorts (£17.00), Thong (£15.00) available in sizes XS-2XL.

Remember that sassy piece of lacy loveliness Julia Lambert reviewed? Try it in Scarlet.

“Ooh-La-La” Corselette by Gossard. Available in sizes 30-38 D-G (UK). $99.00. Thong available in sizes XS-XL. $25.00.

I LOVE the pairing of electric blue and black. Red would have been more expected here, and the blue is surprising and lovely.

“Tempt Me” Plunge Bra and Suspender Short by Curvy Kate. 28-30 D-J, 32 D-HH, 34 D-H, 36 D-GG, 38 D-G. Short, Thong, and High-Waist Brief available in sizes 08-20 (UK).

Mimi Holliday’s new arrivals include this lovely bra for fuller busts, which reminds me of the snow scene in the Nutcracker:

Bisous Bisous Frost Silk Satin Maxi Bra. Available in sizes 28G-28GG, 30G-30GG, 32FF-32GG, 34F-34GG, 36E, 38DD-38E, 40D-40E. Approximately $90.00

Bisous Bisous Frost Silk Satin Maxi Bra. Available in sizes 28G-28GG, 30G-30GG, 32FF-32GG, 34F-34GG, 36E, 38DD-38E, 40D-40E (don’t see your size? it’s probably available in one of the collection’s other styles). Approximately $90.00

In addition to the lovely bra, there are also a plunge bra, shoulder bra, comfort bra, high-waist knicker, classic knicker, classic lace knicker, smooth knicker, lace boy short, lace bow-back thong, suspender, teddy, cami, French knickers, body, and slip. Just, you know, if you’re starved for choices.

A few more of the items available in the Bisous Bisous Frost collection

Finally, for those full-bust ladies who are sick of lace and ruffles but still want a little glam in their wardrobe, check out the “Ali” range by Louise Ferdinand, made of luscious silk dupioni. Lovely and badass all at once.

"Ali" by Louise Ferdinand. Available in sizes 28-38 D-J (JJ-KK available; contact seller). Bra £77.00, Knicker £48.00 (8-22 (UK))

“Ali” by Louise Ferdinand. Available in sizes 28-38 D-J (UK) (JJ-KK available; contact seller). Bra £77.00, Knicker £48.00 (8-22 (UK))

Reviews: Full-Bust Dresses From Pepperberry

Posted on December 5, 2012 by Sweets

The last time I talked about Pepperberry on Sweet Nothings, I wasn’t very positive. I wanted to be! I love Bravissimo and everything they stand for, and I was so excited to hear about the launch of Pepperberry, Bravissimo’s sister brand offering a full range of clothing for full-bust figures. As the first few seasons came and went, however, very few of the options really wowed me. On one level, I didn’t love a lot of the designs. I liked some of them, sure, but I’m a very, very picky shopper, and I wanted to find something I loved that also happened to fit me well. Pepperberry is in a bit of bind because their customer base is “full-bust women who ordinarily wear Misses-sized clothing but who need more room in the bust.” Those women might be older, younger, students, professionals, teachers, stay-at-home mothers, artists, engineers, writers, chefs . . . you see where I’m going. In trying to offer something to please everyone, there were a few collections that felt too staid or safe, even dull. There were also some patterning, supply, quality, and consistency issues that took a few seasons to work out and that didn’t begin to justify the prices. So while I tried a few things every year or so, the dread of having to pay return postage eventually put me off.

Chiffon Spot Blouse and Pleated Pencil Skirt. Blouse available in sizes 08-18 Curvy, Really Curvy, and Super Curvy. £45.00 (about $72.00 USD). Skirt available in sizes 08-18 (UK). £45.00 (about $72.00 USD)

Chiffon Spot Blouse and Pleated Pencil Skirt. Blouse available in sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy, Really Curvy, and Super Curvy. £45.00 (about $72.00 USD). Skirt available in sizes 08-18 (UK). £45.00 (about $72.00 USD)

With their 2012 Autumn/Winter collections, I feel like Pepperberry has really proved that they DO listen to customer feedback. Sizing across the board has been more consistent, the quality has skyrocketed, and each collection has a distinct, unified aesthetic point-of-view. For Autumn, many of the pieces were shot on the platform of a steam railway station, and the models, with their curled and rolled hair and neutral makeup, evoke a nostalgic, 1940s feel. For Winter, Pepperberry reached slightly further back into the past, with Art Deco beading and silhouettes that suggest the 1920s-30s and “Downton Abbey”.

Beaded Flapper Dress, available in sizes 08-18 (UK), Curvy, Really, and Super Curvy. £99.00 (about $158.56 USD)

In addition to these mini “historical” collections, each season’s release has featured some wardrobe staples like button-down shirts, fitted tees, and blazers, as well as a few more youthful dresses. They’ve done away with some of the stranger embellishments on the professional clothes (past collections used studs and sequins . . . not good) and have focused more on tailored details like pleats, seaming, and necklines, as well as improved fabric content. Popular styles have been re-ordered in new colors, and some styles are now available in Super Duper Curvy sizes in response to customer demand (although more would be nice!). While the prices are by no means bargains, the attention to detail and improved fit and fabric quality make them much more reasonable.

For my recent work trip to Bangkok we were given fairly strict dress code suggestions. While I’m a pretty conservative dresser anyway, some of the guidelines threw me for a loop: covered shoulders, knee-length or longer skirts, and black or otherwise neutral shoes. In addition, it was suggested that we avoid certain colors, including red, blue, and yellow. Y’all, I LIVE in navy blue and red. That is what is in my wardrobe. Any skirts/dresses that did meet the knee-length or longer requirement were almost certainly red or blue or both. Furthermore, I owned not a single pair of black pumps or black flats, and many of my tops and dresses are sleeveless, to allow for layering in super air-conditioned office buildings. I had some major, frantic shopping to do, and the desperation (I had about three weeks’ notice to prepare for the trip) convinced me to take a chance on another Pepperberry order.

Abstract Jersey Print Dress. Available in Sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy. £55.00 (about $88 USD).

After checking out UK customers’ pictures on Pepperberry’s Facebook page, I chose the Abstract Jersey Print Dress. The shape, bow detail, and ruched sleeves appealed to my love of feminine dresses, while the modest neckline, below-the-knee length, and conservative color and print met all the criteria for my trip. I’ve gained a bit of weight since the last dress I ordered and kept from Pepperberry, so I chose to go up a dress size and keep the same curvy size. Fortunately, the dress arrived the day before I was due to leave, and I got home and tried it on immediately.

I was deeply impressed right off the bat by the improved quality. The last jersey dresses I’d tried from Pepperberry had felt thin, almost scratchy, and clingy. This dress, on the other hand, hangs beautifully without clinging, there’s no polyester sheen to the fabric, and it feels much softer and more comfortable. It’s a heavy-weight jersey that will be suitable for wear year-round. I wore it in the 90-degree F. heat in Bangkok, and I layered it over tights under a puffy coat in cold New York. There’s no static cling, and it doesn’t stick to my tights. A+, Pepperberry.

Fit-wise, I should have stuck with my old dress size and just gone up a curviness size. The dress fits, but some of the underbust detailing does ride up a bit onto my bust. My waist isn’t as defined as it could be, and consequently it’s not the most slimming dress I own. However, I feel lovely wearing it, and I’ve gotten compliments every time. In a perfect world I’d exchange it, but I’m more than happy with a pretty-close fit instead of a perfect one.

* * * * *

If nothing else, the Bangkok wardrobe requirements really opened my eyes to some massive holes in my wardrobe, and they forced me to admit that some of my clothes are worn-out, falling apart, or ill-fitting. I managed to find some great staple pieces for bargain prices at mass-market retailers like the Gap (thank you for making Tall pencil skirts, the Gap), but I decided to give Pepperberry another shot to invest in some versatile, well-fitting, easily-accessorized dresses to get me through the winter. I knew I wanted at least one “little black dress” that could go from work to a party with a change of shoes, jewelry, hair, and makeup, and I also wanted a slightly less formal dress that could go from work to more casual weekend events. After a lot of deliberation, including reminding myself that no, I really don’t need strapless party dresses, I chose the Ponti Skater Dress, the Stripe Skirt Dress, and the Drape Jersey Dress to go with my order of the Lola Luxe Basque from Bravissimo (reviewed here).

Ponti Skater Dress. Available in sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy. £59.00 (about $94.50 USD)

I was most excited about the Ponti Skater Dress, so I tried that one on first. I’ve always been a bit of a girly-girl, and I love me a fuller skirt and well-defined waist. This time I ordered one dress-size smaller and one curvy-size larger than the Abstract Print Jersey Dress, and the fit is perfect. PERFECT. I’m so used to tugging and adjusting clothing that wrinkles or gapes that it takes me aback when something fits so nicely. There is no straining over the bust and no pulling across the back, just smooth, clean lines that flatter my figure. The skirt hits me where it hits the model, just over the knee, and the neckline is modest without being frumpy. There’s a button detail at the elbow and a wide waistband that sits right at my natural waist. The jersey is once again of excellent quality, and the dress is fully lined (and machine-washable!) with a side zip. This one will probably be too warm for Summer wear, but it’s going to be great for Fall, Winter, and Spring. I’ll note that the sleeves are slimmer-fitting on me than they are on the model, and I don’t have particularly full upper arms, so it’s something to bear in mind if that tends to be a fit issue for you. Overall, this is a great, versatile dress, and I’d love to see it in more colors (green or red or polka dots!).

Striped Skirt Dress. Available in sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy. £69.00 (about $110.50 USD)

Stripe Skirt Dress. Available in sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy. £69.00 (about $110.50 USD)

This was my wild card purchase, as it takes me a bit outside my comfort zone. I’ve never loved the way I looked in “wiggle”-style or body-con dresses, but since only the top portion of the dress is jersey, and the rest is woven, I thought I might find it more comfortable, and I also hoped that the horizontal stripes might offer some balance to my fuller-on-top figure. While I was correct on those points, I was let down by a few fit issues. First, the skirt is significantly shorter on me than it is on the model, by a good three-to-four inches, like everything from that last orange-red stripe down is missing. It really throws the proportions of the dress off and affects the otherwise classic silhouette. Secondly, the side zipper sticks part of the way up, and no amount of tugging or inspecting will make it budge, even though the fit through the bust is otherwise excellent. Finally, that hem is TIGHT. I mean, super tight. I could barely tug it past my bust when pulling the dress on overhead. Once the dress was on, I loved the way it looked. My waist looked tiny, my hips looked lovely and curvy, and the neckline was flattering. And then I tried to sit down in it. I wonder if the skirt was the proper length whether it would have been less excruciatingly tight when I bent to sit, but since it’s short, the hem rides up to my thighs and strains uncomfortably. Standing, though, the fit around my hips is fine, even generous. It’s weird, and it’s a shame, because I thought this would be a fun addition to my wardrobe, but unfortunately it’s going back.

Drape Jersey Dress. Available in sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy. £55.00 (about $88.09 USD)

There are a few nice black dresses currently available at Pepperberry, but I knew I really wanted to find a dress that read a little more grown-up, a little more womanly, and a little sexier than anything in my current wardrobe. Again, this silhouette usually gives me pause, but the slight draping of the skirt and the promise of a mesh lining under the jersey convinced me to give this a try, and I AM SO GLAD I DID. Once again the quality of the jersey is much improved from past seasons, the neckline is flattering (and deeper than that of the Abstract Jersey Print Dress, so a plunge bra will be de rigueur), and the length is perfect– right at my knees. It feels a little strange to pull on because the mesh lining is much tighter than the jersey overlayer, but the lining is tight for a reason. It acts like a built-in slip and provides some smoothing under the jersey so that it doesn’t outline or cling to, say, the line of your bra or your knickers. It’s a great construction choice that pays off really, really well. I’m now sad I missed out on the red version from earlier this year, but I hope this becomes one of Pepperberry’s recurring styles. I can see myself pairing it with boots and a scarf for work, and slipping into heels and sparkly earrings for a night out.

Has anyone else tried any of Pepperberry’s A/W 2012 collections? What do you think? If had my druthers, I would have liked to have seen an elegant, classic, structured black strapless dress with a straight skirt (New Year’s Eve!), and I was a little surprised that there wasn’t a single long evening dress available. That being said, I thought they made great choices this season, and I hope the Spring brings more treasures! Also, some coats, jackets, and sweaters are currently on sale, so if you’re feeling winter’s chill you should definitely check them out!

Reminder: Any item I review on Sweet Nothings, unless otherwise specified, is something I bought for myself, and all opinions are my own. Policies.

Sweet Nothings

Tag Archives: full-bust

Review: Strapless Bras for GG+ Cups- Elomi Smoothing Strapless

Giveaway: Affinitas and Parfait

And Then There Were None: Strapless Bras for G+ Cup Sizes (plus a review of Deco Shape)

Sweet Nothings Du Jour: 5/22/13 Bravissimo’s Summer Collection

Full-Bust Wishlist: Dresses Edition

Dispatches from CurveNY

Lingerie Fashion Week Day 2: Uye Surana and Affinitas/Parfait

Brand Introduction: Panache Superbra

Nutcracker Sweets Act II: 5 Holiday Picks for Fuller Busts

Reviews: Full-Bust Dresses From Pepperberry

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