Review: Freya Active Performance Underwire Sports Top

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I hadn’t worn a Freya Active Sports Bra in a number of years, and certainly not since Panache released their magnificent sports bra.  I always wear sports bras to the gym, and lately I’ve been wearing one to S Factor classes as well.  Bras, even reasonably-priced ones, will really eat into a gal’s budget, and I decided I wanted to spare my nice bras the sweat and strain of intense activity.  However, Sweets in a sports bra + t-shirt doesn’t exactly scream “sexy, sensual pole goddess,” so I decided to check out Freya’s athletic top.  I like wearing black to dance in, I’m proud of how toned my shoulders are becoming, and I wanted a fuss-free, all-in one piece of athletic wear, so Freya’s Sports Top, with its sleek halter style, seemed like a great option.  I haven’t seen the full Freya Active range very widely available in the USA, so I placed an order with Large Cup Lingerie, an excellent e-retailer with free (and astonishingly prompt!) international delivery.

(Reminder: unless stated otherwise, anything I review on Sweet Nothings was purchased with my own money for my own use.)

Image from Large Cup Lingerie

Freya Active Sports Top.  Available in sizes 30-38 D-H (UK)

I seemed to remember Freya’s sports bra not tacking fully, so I ordered the larger of the two cup sizes I’m currently waffling between to see if it would help with the fit of the cup, keeping my regular band size to achieve the best support.  I placed my order on a Friday and received it the following Thursday– pretty astounding!  The day it arrived I had one of those need-to-do-laundry days where you wear the bra that doesn’t totally fit and you hope no one notices but YOU notice and it drives you BANANAS, so I was thrilled to get to S Factor that night, ditch the old bra, and take the new one out for a spin.

First, the good:

Freya has put a lot of thought into the construction.  The straps, instead of adjusting with sliders, feature three sets of two hooks-and-eyes, much as you’d find on a bra band, so that once you hook the straps at the desired length, they stay put with no risk of slipping throughout a long workout.  The band fastens with three sets of four hooks-and-eyes, and that deep band provides a lot of stability and support.  The fabric is very silky to the touch without that icky, scratchy, static-y feel some synthetic workout wear has, and it keeps you wonderfully cool.  All the extra hooks and layers and things make it a bit tricky to wiggle into (I actually pulled a neck muscle craning to look for an errant strap, which says more about the state of my posture immediately post-work than it does about the bra), but once it’s hooked and adjusted it’s not going anywhere.

EXCEPT for the bad:

The shape of the cup is not my shape, and as such the fit is appalling.

The first thing I’ll nitpick is that the hooks-and-eyes on the straps are great, unless one is short-waisted and usually needs to adjust her bra straps to shorten them.  I’d have needed one or two more sets of hooks to fix the straps into a position where I’d have found them comfortable.

Secondly, the seam of the cup lies horizontally smack across the center of the breast, which I loathe on a purely aesthetic level.  Whereas Panache’s sports bra (with more vertical seams) gives a lovely, rounded, uplifted shape, the Freya Active gives me one of the frumpiest, most matronly shapes I’ve encountered since I discovered how to fit myself properly.  Yes, appearance isn’t necessarily the first concern when it comes to athletic wear, but I know that for me personally I perform better, both at the gym and in class, when I feel confident in my appearance.  I feel very wide and flabby in this top, and it’s unlikely I’d ever reach for it as a first choice for my gym bag.

Finally, the center gore/bridge doesn’t tack (lie flush against my sternum) by a country mile.  Darlene wrote an interesting post on Hourglassy last week (Big Bust Bra Fit Issues: That’s So Tacky!) about how tacking is an absolute dealbreaker for some and yet the first point of fit compromise for others.  I fall firmly into the first category.  I’m learning that my breasts are close-set, full on top and bottom, and soft, and consequently I prefer very up-front bras with a lot of lift and forward projection, like Cleo’s unlined balconettes (especially styles like Marcie and Meg).

A bra’s failure to tack can indicate a few things.  Most commonly it indicates that the cup is too small, and the breast tissue is pushing the bridge out and away from the chest wall.  In this case, however, I still had significant amounts of room left in the bottom and sides of the cup.  The wires are quite wide, and extended fully under my armpit, almost around to my back.  Underneath each breast is more unfilled cup.  So what gives?  I clearly have a lot of boob, yet there’s a lot of room in the bra.  Why aren’t we playing nicely together?

Freya Active

Some other styles in the Active range, which include swimwear and wire-free styles.

The bra’s shape doesn’t fit my shape, plain and simple.  I have deep, narrow-set breasts with narrow roots, and this bra will work better on a woman whose breasts are shallower, wider-set, and wider at the root (where the breast tissue meets the chest wall).  I found myself trying to scoop my boobs out to the sides to fill the cup, and hoisting the band up to coax my boobs to settle into the extra room, but within five minutes of movement and activity I’d have to readjust.  It’s a disappointment, considering the price (around $90-100, much higher than I’m usually comfortable paying), quality, and construction, and especially because the rest of Freya’s Active range comes in some great color combinations, but I think this line isn’t going to work well for me.

Have you tried the Sports Top, or any of the other products in Freya’s Active line?  What do you think of the fit and support?  How do the wire-free styles compare to the underwired ones?

Freya Active Performance Underwired Sports Top is available at Bare Necessities and Large Cup Lingerie.

Review: Boudoir Beau by Bravissimo

"Boudoir Beau" Bra by Bravissimo (exclusive) in Emerald (other colors available).  Sizes 28-38 DD-K. £30.00.  Shorts (£17.00), Thong (£15.00) available in sizes XS-2XL.

“Boudoir Beau” Bra by Bravissimo (exclusive) in Emerald (other colors available). Sizes 28-38 DD-K. £30.00. Shorts (£17.00), Thong (£15.00) available in sizes XS-2XL.

I included this in my Full-Bust Holiday picks, and about three days later realized I really, really, really wanted it. I “needed” a new black lace bra, I wanted a new balconette bra that gave a rounded shape and good support, and I adored the bright kelly/emerald green. So Christmas present to me!

Materials/Quality:

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Close-up of the lace overlay. Once again, Sweets’ smartphone photography skills put everyone to SHAME.

This is only the second Bravissimo own-brand bra I’ve kept, but I’ve been pretty consistently impressed with the quality of the Bravissimo label, even while I’ve struggled to figure out the fit. The lace is already comfortable, and I imagine it will soften even further with wear. There is a lush, puffy bow (hence the “beau” in the name) between the cups, the straps are fully adjustable, and my size closes with three sets of three hooks and eyes, which I’m coming to realize is just so dang COMFORTABLE. The details continue on to the adorable briefs, which are topped with a matching bow at the back. I tried on a Boudoir Beau set when the style was first introduced a few years ago, and my recollection was that the material was a little stretchy and flimsy. That is not the case at all now: I feel comfortable and firmly supported, and the band has so far retained its support through a month of wears and washing. Note that in certain cup sizes the top of the cup is not sheer lace as pictured on the catalogue model; it’s lined with a black mesh panel for extra support.

Appearance:

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That green, y’all. I used to have a shirtdress that color that made me feel like the prettiest girl in the world. I love, love, love that green. I want a ballgown with a bustle and train in that color green.  When I win an Oscar/Nobel Prize for Boobular Goodness, I will wear said ballgown.  I was a little disappointed to see that in my size the proportion of black-to-green is much larger than it appears on the model. The top part of the cup kind of takes over, especially taking into account the mesh panel, which gives wonderful support but severely cuts down on the delicacy and frilliness of the style. For some, that might be a good thing, but for me, it was a bit of a bummer.

Fit/Shape:

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I am so, so, so glad to have this bra in my current rotation. The shape is rounded, but not as orb-like as the perfect spheres my beloved Cleo bras give me. It’s a bit more natural shape, but no less uplifted. Cheryl over at Invest in Your Chest had a great post up recently (“Getting to the Root of the Problem“) examining how differently-constructed fit, and she pointed out the difference between bras that really lift from the root of the breast versus encircling and cradling the breast without a ton of lift. To me, the Boudoir Beau lifts and supports as beautifully as the more dramatic root-lifting bras, yet offers the more natural look of a traditional balconette bra. And it is indeed a balconette: the center wire comes up quite a bit higher than a plunge bra would, so it’s not for every neckline. After my good luck with the fit of the Lola Luxe Basque, I ordered the same size here (same band as what I wear in Panache/Cleo/Fantasie, but one cup size larger). I was worried I might find the band a bit loose, but it runs very true-to-size, which is good news for women who prefer firm bands.

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This view of the back shows off the brief’s cute bow and sheer back with horizontal seam, as well as the close-set wires at the bra’s center gore.

I ordered the matching briefs (thongs are stupid and I hate them for all-day wear), but, having learned my lesson with the Lola Luxe, I ordered the next size down (same size as Freya, one size down from Cleo), and they fit like a dream. I can’t be certain, but I think when I tried the Boudoir Beau set a few years ago the briefs lacked the top back panel they have now, and as such were ludicrously, ridiculously low-cut and uncomfortable. The problem is fixed now, and I think the horizontal seam standing out against the sheer fabric is rather sexy!

Verdict:

I haven’t had this set very long, but it’s quickly becoming one of my favorites. It’s extremely comfortable for all-day wear, gives me a flattering shape under clothes, requires little-to-no adjusting throughout the day, and, despite the seams and lace on the cup, has a pretty low profile under knit tops. My breasts are fairly full on both top and bottom, and the cup shape, center gore width, and wire placement feel like they were made for me. I am crossing my fingers for a pretty new color in Bravissimo’s early Spring collection (launching next week!). While not an absolute bargain, the price is beyond reasonable, working out to around $46.00 for the bra and $20.00 for the briefs. Considering that many full-bust boutiques in NYC have told me that I should be spending $200/bra (LUDICROUS HIGHWAY ROBBERY), I am more than happy to pay full-price for such a great bra. Highly recommended, more like this please!

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Nutcracker Sweets Act III: 5 Holiday Picks for Fuller Figures

More festive lingerie, holiday-or-otherwise!  Today’s picks are for customers shopping in the full-figure market.  For purposes of this post, I’ve chosen items available in at least band sizes 36-42 and at least DD cups, although some of the options are available in additional sizes.

Oh.  Yeah, actually, my first pick isn’t even bra-sized.  Yikes.  Sorry about that.  But it’s so pretty!  Blue-and-Black gets me every time.

Satin and Chopper Bar Lace Chemise in Blue and Black (also in Pink and Black).  $55.90 from Hips and Curves.  Sizes 1X-3X.

Satin and Chopper Bar Lace Chemise in Blue and Black (also in Pink and Black). $55.90 from Hips and Curves. Sizes 1X-3X.

The rear view is super, super sassy, although we can all see that the bra part fits terribly, since the back is riding up, but we are also not judging, on account of sassiness.

HELLO, Lovers.

HELLO, Lover.

This is next one is such a sweet, delicate bra in an unusual and pretty pale pink/mink colorway.  I’ve arbitrarily been assigning one set per post a variation from the Nutcracker, and this one (a steal at just $30.00!) belongs to the Marzipan Shepherdesses, hands-down.

Amour Bra in Mink-Pink by Pour Moi?  available in sizes 30-44 D-G (UK).  Matching short available in sizes 08-20 (UK)

Amour Bra in Mink-Pink by Pour Moi? available in sizes 30-44 D-G (UK), $30.00. Matching short available in sizes 08-22 (UK), $15.00.

As I learned delightedly in my office building’s elevator the other day, Pantone’s color of the year for 2013 is emerald green.  Green is really having a moment in the lingerie world, and I love the deep, sophisticated hue Goddess brings to their smooth Keira style.  Emerald is available as both a soft cup and a bandless wired bra, and other colors are available in a longline-soft-cup style (black) and a nursing bra (beige).

"Keira" Soft Cup Wire-Free Bra in Emerald by Goddess (Also available in other colors and as a wired bra).  Sizes 34-46 DD-N (US Sizing).

“Keira” Soft Cup Wire-Free Bra in Emerald by Goddess (Also available in other colors and as a wired bra). Sizes 34-56 B-H (US Sizing), about $45-50; banded/wired bra sizes 34-46 DD-N.  Why no matching knickers, Goddess?  I direct interested parties to Knickerocker on Etsy instead.

I love this next bra’s embroidery!  I think if someone said to me “oh yeah, a black bra with red and gold embroidery, no really, I swear it’s not frumpy”, I’d be all “psh, prove it.”  And then Elomi would prove it, with an elegant, regal bra, thusly:

"Cleo" Bandless Bra by Elomi.  Available in Beige, Black, and Charcoal.  Sizes vary from color to color; generally 34-48 D-G (UK).  $54.00.  Matching brief sizes M-4XL, $28.00.

“Cleo” Bandless Bra by Elomi. Available in Beige, Black, and Charcoal. Sizes vary from color to color; generally 34-48 D-G (UK). $54.00. Matching brief sizes M-4XL, $28.00.

Finally, is your party dress strapless?  Check out this beautiful basque with removable straps by Pour Moi?:

Pour Moi? "Amour" basque, with removable straps and suspenders in black/pink.  32-44 B-F.  $52.50.  Matching thong and shortie available to size 18 (UK), $12-15

Pour Moi? “Amour” basque, with removable straps and suspenders in black/pink. 32-44 B-F. $52.50. Matching thong and shortie available to size 18 (UK), $12-15

Oh what the heck, a bonus round, since the first chemise isn’t bra sized:

"Maggie" Babydoll by Elomi.  Available in black, sizes 36-42 F-GG (UK).  $86.00.  Matching brief, sizes M-4XL, $24.00

“Maggie” Babydoll by Elomi. Available in black, sizes 36-42 F-GG (UK). $86.00. Matching brief, sizes M-4XL, $24.00

Will any of these find their way to your Christmas tree?

Nutcracker Sweets Act II: 5 Holiday Picks for Fuller Busts

Welcome, my sisters, to a list of the things that are currently taunting me.  Me and my credit card.

Note: for purposes of this post, “full-bust” refers to bras in sizes 28-38, from a D-cup to at least a UK G-cup.  Many of the bras below also come in additional sizes.

I love this I love this I love this I want this.

"Boudoir Beau" Bra by Bravissimo (exclusive) in Emerald (other colors available).  Sizes 28-38 DD-K. £30.00.  Shorts (£17.00), Thong (£15.00) available in sizes XS-2XL.

“Boudoir Beau” Bra by Bravissimo (exclusive) in Emerald (other colors available). Sizes 28-38 DD-K (UK). £30.00. Shorts (£17.00), Thong (£15.00) available in sizes XS-2XL.

Remember that sassy piece of lacy loveliness Julia Lambert reviewed?  Try it in Scarlet.

"Ooh-La-La" Corselette by Gossard.  Available in sizes 30-38 D-G (UK).  $99.00.  Thong available in sizes XS-XL.  $25.00.

“Ooh-La-La” Corselette by Gossard. Available in sizes 30-38 D-G (UK). $99.00. Thong available in sizes XS-XL. $25.00.

I LOVE the pairing of electric blue and black.  Red would have been more expected here, and the blue is surprising and lovely.

"Tempt Me" Plunge Bra and Suspender Short by Curvy Kate.  28-30 D-J, 32 D-HH, 34 D-H, 36 D-GG, 38 D-G.  Short, Thong, and High-Waist Brief available in sizes 08-20 (UK).

“Tempt Me” Plunge Bra and Suspender Short by Curvy Kate. 28-30 D-J, 32 D-HH, 34 D-H, 36 D-GG, 38 D-G. Short, Thong, and High-Waist Brief available in sizes 08-20 (UK).

Mimi Holliday’s new arrivals include this lovely bra for fuller busts, which reminds me of the snow scene in the Nutcracker:

Bisous Bisous Frost Silk Satin Maxi Bra.  Available in sizes 28G-28GG, 30G-30GG, 32FF-32GG, 34F-34GG, 36E, 38DD-38E, 40D-40E.  Approximately $90.00

Bisous Bisous Frost Silk Satin Maxi Bra. Available in sizes 28G-28GG, 30G-30GG, 32FF-32GG, 34F-34GG, 36E, 38DD-38E, 40D-40E (don’t see your size? it’s probably available in one of the collection’s other styles). Approximately $90.00

In addition to the lovely bra, there are also a plunge bra, shoulder bra, comfort bra, high-waist knicker, classic knicker, classic lace knicker, smooth knicker, lace boy short, lace bow-back thong, suspender, teddy, cami, French knickers, body, and slip.  Just, you know, if you’re starved for choices.

A few more of the items available in the Bisous Bisous Frost collection

A few more of the items available in the Bisous Bisous Frost collection

Finally, for those full-bust ladies who are sick of lace and ruffles but still want a little glam in their wardrobe, check out the “Ali” range by Louise Ferdinand, made of luscious silk dupioni.  Lovely and badass all at once.

"Ali" by Louise Ferdinand.  Available in sizes 28-38 D-J (JJ-KK available; contact seller).  Bra £77.00, Knicker £48.00 (8-22 (UK))

“Ali” by Louise Ferdinand. Available in sizes 28-38 D-J (UK) (JJ-KK available; contact seller). Bra £77.00, Knicker £48.00 (8-22 (UK))

Reviews: Full-Bust Dresses From Pepperberry

The last time I talked about Pepperberry on Sweet Nothings, I wasn’t very positive.  I wanted to be!  I love Bravissimo and everything they stand for, and I was so excited to hear about the launch of Pepperberry, Bravissimo’s sister brand offering a full range of clothing for full-bust figures.  As the first few seasons came and went, however, very few of the options really wowed me.  On one level, I didn’t love a lot of the designs.  I liked some of them, sure, but I’m a very, very picky shopper, and I wanted to find something I loved that also happened to fit me well.  Pepperberry is in a bit of bind because their customer base is “full-bust women who ordinarily wear Misses-sized clothing but who need more room in the bust.”  Those women might be older, younger, students, professionals, teachers, stay-at-home mothers, artists, engineers, writers, chefs . . . you see where I’m going.  In trying to offer something to please everyone, there were a few collections that felt too staid or safe, even dull.  There were also some patterning, supply, quality, and consistency issues that took a few seasons to work out and that didn’t begin to justify the prices.  So while I tried a few things every year or so, the dread of having to pay return postage eventually put me off.

Chiffon Spot Blouse and Pleated Pencil Skirt.  Blouse available in sizes 08-18 Curvy, Really Curvy, and Super Curvy.  £45.00 (about $72.00 USD).  Skirt available in sizes 08-18 (UK).  £45.00 (about $72.00 USD)

Chiffon Spot Blouse and Pleated Pencil Skirt. Blouse available in sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy, Really Curvy, and Super Curvy. £45.00 (about $72.00 USD). Skirt available in sizes 08-18 (UK). £45.00 (about $72.00 USD)

With their 2012 Autumn/Winter collections, I feel like Pepperberry has really proved that they DO listen to customer feedback.  Sizing across the board has been more consistent, the quality has skyrocketed, and each collection has a distinct, unified aesthetic point-of-view.  For Autumn, many of the pieces were shot on the platform of a steam railway station, and the models, with their curled and rolled hair and neutral makeup, evoke a nostalgic, 1940s feel.  For Winter, Pepperberry reached slightly further back into the past, with Art Deco beading and silhouettes that suggest the 1920s-30s and “Downton Abbey”.

Beaded-Flapper-Dress-

Beaded Flapper Dress, available in sizes 08-18 (UK), Curvy, Really, and Super Curvy. £99.00 (about $158.56 USD)

In addition to these mini “historical” collections, each season’s release has featured some wardrobe staples like button-down shirts, fitted tees, and blazers, as well as a few more youthful dresses.  They’ve done away with some of the stranger embellishments on the professional clothes (past collections used studs and sequins . . . not good) and have focused more on tailored details like pleats, seaming, and necklines, as well as improved fabric content.  Popular styles have been re-ordered in new colors, and some styles are now available in Super Duper Curvy sizes in response to customer demand (although more would be nice!).  While the prices are by no means bargains, the attention to detail and improved fit and fabric quality make them much more reasonable.

For my recent work trip to Bangkok we were given fairly strict dress code suggestions.  While I’m a pretty conservative dresser anyway, some of the guidelines threw me for a loop: covered shoulders, knee-length or longer skirts, and black or otherwise neutral shoes.  In addition, it was suggested that we avoid certain colors, including red, blue, and yellow.  Y’all, I LIVE in navy blue and red.  That is what is in my wardrobe.  Any skirts/dresses that did meet the knee-length or longer requirement were almost certainly red or blue or both.  Furthermore, I owned not a single pair of black pumps or black flats, and many of my tops and dresses are sleeveless, to allow for layering in super air-conditioned office buildings.  I had some major, frantic shopping to do, and the desperation (I had about three weeks’ notice to prepare for the trip) convinced me to take a chance on another Pepperberry order.

Abstract Jersey Print Dress.  Available in Sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy. £55.00 (about $88 USD).

Abstract Jersey Print Dress. Available in Sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy. £55.00 (about $88 USD).

After checking out UK customers’ pictures on Pepperberry’s Facebook page, I chose the Abstract Jersey Print Dress.  The shape, bow detail, and ruched sleeves appealed to my love of feminine dresses, while the modest neckline, below-the-knee length, and conservative color and print met all the criteria for my trip.  I’ve gained a bit of weight since the last dress I ordered and kept from Pepperberry, so I chose to go up a dress size and keep the same curvy size.  Fortunately, the dress arrived the day before I was due to leave, and I got home and tried it on immediately.

I was deeply impressed right off the bat by the improved quality.  The last jersey dresses I’d tried from Pepperberry had felt thin, almost scratchy, and clingy.  This dress, on the other hand, hangs beautifully without clinging, there’s no polyester sheen to the fabric, and it feels much softer and more comfortable.  It’s a heavy-weight jersey that will be suitable for wear year-round.  I wore it in the 90-degree F. heat in Bangkok, and I layered it over tights under a puffy coat in cold New York.  There’s no static cling, and it doesn’t stick to my tights.  A+, Pepperberry.

Fit-wise, I should have stuck with my old dress size and just gone up a curviness size.  The dress fits, but some of the underbust detailing does ride up a bit onto my bust.  My waist isn’t as defined as it could be, and consequently it’s not the most slimming dress I own.  However, I feel lovely wearing it, and I’ve gotten compliments every time.  In a perfect world I’d exchange it, but I’m more than happy with a pretty-close fit instead of a perfect one.

*     *     *     *     *

If nothing else, the Bangkok wardrobe requirements really opened my eyes to some massive holes in my wardrobe, and they forced me to admit that some of my clothes are worn-out, falling apart, or ill-fitting.  I managed to find some great staple pieces for bargain prices at mass-market retailers like the Gap (thank you for making Tall pencil skirts, the Gap), but I decided to give Pepperberry another shot to invest in some versatile, well-fitting, easily-accessorized dresses to get me through the winter.  I knew I wanted at least one “little black dress” that could go from work to a party with a change of shoes, jewelry, hair, and makeup, and I also wanted a slightly less formal dress that could go from work to more casual weekend events.  After a lot of deliberation, including reminding myself that no, I really don’t need strapless party dresses, I chose the Ponti Skater Dress, the Stripe Skirt Dress, and the Drape Jersey Dress to go with my order of the Lola Luxe Basque from Bravissimo (reviewed here).

Ponti Skater Dress.  Available in sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy.  £59.00 (about $94.50 USD)

Ponti Skater Dress. Available in sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy. £59.00 (about $94.50 USD)

I was most excited about the Ponti Skater Dress, so I tried that one on first.  I’ve always been a bit of a girly-girl, and I love me a fuller skirt and well-defined waist.  This time I ordered one dress-size smaller and one curvy-size larger than the Abstract Print Jersey Dress, and the fit is perfect.  PERFECT.  I’m so used to tugging and adjusting clothing that wrinkles or gapes that it takes me aback when something fits so nicely.  There is no straining over the bust and no pulling across the back, just smooth, clean lines that flatter my figure.  The skirt hits me where it hits the model, just over the knee, and the neckline is modest without being frumpy.  There’s a button detail at the elbow and a wide waistband that sits right at my natural waist.  The jersey is once again of excellent quality, and the dress is fully lined (and machine-washable!) with a side zip.  This one will probably be too warm for Summer wear, but it’s going to be great for Fall, Winter, and Spring.  I’ll note that the sleeves are slimmer-fitting on me than they are on the model, and I don’t have particularly full upper arms, so it’s something to bear in mind if that tends to be a fit issue for you.  Overall, this is a great, versatile dress, and I’d love to see it in more colors (green or red or polka dots!).

Striped Skirt Dress.  Available in sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy.  £69.00 (about $110.50 USD)

Stripe Skirt Dress. Available in sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy. £69.00 (about $110.50 USD)

This was my wild card purchase, as it takes me a bit outside my comfort zone.  I’ve never loved the way I looked in “wiggle”-style or body-con dresses, but since only the top portion of the dress is jersey, and the rest is woven, I thought I might find it more comfortable, and I also hoped that the horizontal stripes might offer some balance to my fuller-on-top figure.  While I was correct on those points, I was let down by a few fit issues.  First, the skirt is significantly shorter on me than it is on the model, by a good three-to-four inches, like everything from that last orange-red stripe down is missing.  It really throws the proportions of the dress off and affects the otherwise classic silhouette.  Secondly, the side zipper sticks part of the way up, and no amount of tugging or inspecting will make it budge, even though the fit through the bust is otherwise excellent.  Finally, that hem is TIGHT.  I mean, super tight.  I could barely tug it past my bust when pulling the dress on overhead.  Once the dress was on, I loved the way it looked.  My waist looked tiny, my hips looked lovely and curvy, and the neckline was flattering.  And then I tried to sit down in it.  I wonder if the skirt was the proper length whether it would have been less excruciatingly tight when I bent to sit, but since it’s short, the hem rides up to my thighs and strains uncomfortably.  Standing, though, the fit around my hips is fine, even generous.  It’s weird, and it’s a shame, because I thought this would be a fun addition to my wardrobe, but unfortunately it’s going back.

Drape Jersey Dress.  Available in sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy.  £55.00 (about $88.09 USD)

Drape Jersey Dress. Available in sizes 08-18 (UK) Curvy/Really Curvy and Really Curvy/Super Curvy. £55.00 (about $88.09 USD)

There are a few nice black dresses currently available at Pepperberry, but I knew I really wanted to find a dress that read a little more grown-up, a little more womanly, and a little sexier than anything in my current wardrobe.  Again, this silhouette usually gives me pause, but the slight draping of the skirt and the promise of a mesh lining under the jersey convinced me to give this a try, and I AM SO GLAD I DID.  Once again the quality of the jersey is much improved from past seasons, the neckline is flattering (and deeper than that of the Abstract Jersey Print Dress, so a plunge bra will be de rigueur), and the length is perfect– right at my knees.  It feels a little strange to pull on because the mesh lining is much tighter than the jersey overlayer, but the lining is tight for a reason.  It acts like a built-in slip and provides some smoothing under the jersey so that it doesn’t outline or cling to, say, the line of your bra or your knickers.  It’s a great construction choice that pays off really, really well.  I’m now sad I missed out on the red version from earlier this year, but I hope this becomes one of Pepperberry’s recurring styles.  I can see myself pairing it with boots and a scarf for work, and slipping into heels and sparkly earrings for a night out.

Has anyone else tried any of Pepperberry’s A/W 2012 collections?  What do you think?  If had my druthers, I would have liked to have seen an elegant, classic, structured black strapless dress with a straight skirt (New Year’s Eve!), and I was a little surprised that there wasn’t a single long evening dress available.  That being said, I thought they made great choices this season, and I hope the Spring brings more treasures!  Also, some coats, jackets, and sweaters are currently on sale, so if you’re feeling winter’s chill you should definitely check them out!

Reminder: Any item I review on Sweet Nothings, unless otherwise specified, is something I bought for myself, and all opinions are my own.  Policies.

Review: Lola Luxe Basque by Bravissimo

Bravissimo, light of my life, the store that taught me about full-bust sizing and that pretty bras over a D-cup exist, recently introduced the first ever basque that goes up to a (UK) K-cup. The Lola Luxe Basque appeared for the first time last winter in a pretty black/teal colorway (select sizes still available) to very positive reviews, and Bravissimo released what I presume is the continuity version this Fall in a basic-but-sexy black. Bravissimo really listened to the enthusiastic customer feedback by reintroducing the style, and they also adjusted the design so that the suspenders are now detachable, which was one of the sole customer complaints about the original version. I was glad to see that the basque was here to stay, but the black didn’t really grab my attention.

Lola Luxe

Lola Luxe Basque in Black by Bravissimo

For winter, however, Bravissimo has released a lovely Blackberry shade with hot pink trim, and somehow the basque and matching brief found their way into an exchange order I placed with Pepperberry, Bravissimo’s full-bust clothing company (reviews, glowing, are forthcoming).

Lola Luxe Basque in Blackberry by Bravissimo

Lola Luxe Basque in Blackberry by Bravissimo

Bravissimo accidentally sent my exchange order to my apartment instead of my usual shipping address, which meant that even though it arrived Wednesday, I couldn’t pick it up until Saturday. I’m always nervous about ordering new items from overseas and having to guess my sizes, so by the time I got the box home Saturday morning after an hour-long wait at the post office my anticipation was at a fever pitch. It was handsomely rewarded.

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Terrible Kitten is terrible.

In a nutshell, I think Bravissimo knocked it out of the park on this one. The quality, fit, comfort, shape, style, and color are all perfect, and I don’t say that lightly. I wasn’t sure about the berry/pink combination in the catalogue shot, but I love it in person. The shade is incredibly flattering to my coloring (very pale skin, almost-black hair). It’s dark and elegant while still being warm and sensual. After reading reviews on the Bravissimo website, I ordered my usual band size, but I went up a cup size from what I normally wear in, say, Freya or Panache. I suspect I might be in-between sizes in this item, as the cups are ever-so-slightly roomy, but I’d rather they were roomy than ever-so-slightly small. The fit through the body is outstanding. There is no digging or pinching, and it provides a gorgeously smooth line across the back, which is great for clinging dresses. The only other basque I’ve ever worn is Masquerade’s older Antoinette basque (reviewed here), and while I love it, I think the Lola Luxe improves on it in two important ways.

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A close-up of the beautiful bow embroidery detail. The top part of the cups is sheer, but the bottom is lined, and (real talk) it gives very good nipple coverage.

First, the suspenders. There is something so womanly, sophisticated, and sexy about a complete lingerie ensemble. A basque feels glamorous and grown-up, and stockings really complete the look (tights would just look kind of strange worn over or under it). Secondly, the cut of the Lola Luxe is much more hourglass-friendly than the Antoinette, which is cut straight across the bottom. Lola has a curved hem that cuts up higher in the rear and over the hips to allow for a figure’s curves without digging into them.  The bones are softer and more flexible than the Antoinette’s, and they seem to retain their shape better (in the Antoinette, I’ve found that if the bones bend when I move, they tend to stay bent and dig into me). In Lola Luxe, the bones pop back into place much more readily, and the unlined mesh bodice smooths and gently shapes. If I had to choose a piece of shapewear for a full-busted lady, I’d recommend this in a heartbeat. A smooth line under clothes that makes me feel fabulously pretty (and really surprisingly comfortable) instead of smooshed and squished? Absolutely.

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A back view. There is a tiny pink bow on the back of the briefs, the basque closes with three sets of twelve hooks-and-eyes, and the back is cut slightly higher and the suspenders slightly longer than the front, to accommodate the curve of the rear and keep stockings secure and level. I love Bravissimo’s attention to detail on this set.

In the briefs, I also chose a size up from what I wear in Freya, which I think may have been a mistake. They are just a bit loose, but not enough that I think they’ll fall off. If push comes to shove I’ll take the side seams in a bit, but I was pleased to notice that they’re cut a bit higher than some of Bravissimo’s earliest own-brand briefs were, a welcome improvement.

Overall, I’m thrilled to add this staggeringly pretty piece to my lingerie wardrobe.  The fit and shape of the cups is lovely and natural without being too “pointy”, the basque itself is comfortable and flattering, the detachable suspenders allow me to wear it with or without stockings as I choose, and it doubles as shapewear if I’m looking for a smooth silhouette under clinging clothes.  Aesthetically, I really, really dig how feminine it is without being precious or froofy.  There’s nothing wrong with froofy (see: Froofy robe, my unending quest for), of course, but I like that this piece is sexy without jumping immediately to black, light pink, or red.  The bow embroidery recalls the satin ribbons laced through undergarments in the late 19th/early 20th centuries, and of course the lovely hourglass shape it provides makes me feel like some Victorian grande dame.  Maybe one who wore dresses like this (House of Worth, naturally, c. 1880s).

Worth purple silk velvet gown

If you’re a full-bust lady who wants the look of a corset with the comfort and support of a bra, Lola is for you.  I know I’ll be wearing it under some of my holiday outfits soon!

Lola Luxe by Bravissimo (exclusive)
Available in sizes 30-38 DD-K (UK sizing) £50.00 (about $80 USD)
Brief, Thong available in sizes S-2XL £14.00-16.00 (about $22-25 USD)

Review: Panache Superbra Cami Top- Super, Indeed

Camisole top by Panache Superbra

I had no idea how much I’d love this thing.  None at all.  I’ve flirted with built-in bra camisole tops in the past, but that was many, many cup sizes ago.  I understand the appeal: you can wear a thin-strapped camisole without showing off your bra straps, yet still feel perfectly supported.  I know some people really, really loathe showing their bra straps, but I just figured I didn’t have any other choice.  Furthermore, the tanks I’d tried on in the past had all been uniformly clingy and too short, and if a top is too short on me, the short-waisted wonder, how on earth is it supposed to work on women with longer torsos?  So I figured cami-tops were just one of those “not for me” things.

Sometimes impulse purchases are the best purchases.  I recently had a discount code to use at Figleaves and decided to splurge a little and try out Panache’s cami-top.  They’re currently available in black and white, in sizes 32-38 D-H (UK).  I have a bit of a belly, so I chose to order my sister size, one band size larger (for more room in the body) and one cup size down (to achieve the same cup volume as my normal size).  It arrived while I was in Bangkok, so I didn’t get to try it on until after my first day back at the office.

I wore it for the rest of the week.

Seriously, it is that comfortable.  I had NO IDEA how comfortable and, more particularly, how flattering a well-cut camisole top could be.  I love that it shows off my shoulders and neckline, without sacrificing great fit and support.  As the model kindly demonstrates for us at the top of the post, the cami contains a built-in, underwired, lightly padded (VERY lightly– if all padded bras were this thin and flexible, I’d be more on board with them), seamed bra with the standard three sets of two hooks and eyes and fully-adjustable straps.  I’m glad I chose my sister size– I think my regular size might have worked (indeed the underwires feel a bit wide and the band itself a touch loose), but I really appreciate the bit of extra room through the belly.  I know some people (myself included) find that the wires on some of Panache’s bras are cut wide and high at the sides, but there is no such problem here.  The cups are maybe a tad generous, so it might take some trial-and-error to hit the size you like the best.  The good news is that apparently Panache recently adjusted their patterns to add a bit more length.  The camisole comes fully down to my hips, instead of my waist, and it doesn’t roll up.  I can tuck it in or wear it casually without worrying about its coming untucked or exposing my belly.

Bottom line: It feels fantastic.  It doesn’t give the highest or most uplifted shape, but the support is great, and the neckline is modest, which is great for layering as part of a professional outfit.  This is going to be my go-to for hot summer days, for yoga, for dance classes, and for sleeping.  I will probably order more, especially if Panache releases it in more colors– I would love to see a red, a bright royal blue, some shade of green, or a shade close to my skin tone to wear under sheer tops.  I’d also like to see expanded size ranges in the future; I know there are women sized out at either end of the spectrum who would LOVE to have a top like this.  Maybe Panache’s forthcoming Sculptresse line will step up to the plate for the full-figured, full-bust customer?

*     *     *     *     *

Panache Superbra Cami Top is available in Black and White at A Sophisticated Pair, Figleaves, Townshop (a few sizes available in Pink only) and Bare Necessities (a few sizes still available in Red and Navy, as well as the full size range in Black and White).

Sweet Nothing Du Jour: 10/19/12

I’ve been a bit anxious lately, but a series of very good, very small, very sweet things just happened.

New shoes for upcoming business trip:

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Cat:

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Discovering kind friends left the bottle of sloe gin in my freezer Wednesday night:

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Terrible Cat:

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Being interviewed by Invest in Your Chest, whose blog is just awesome:

After a long and emotionally trying week, it’s a very fine Friday, indeed.

**If you’re in the NYC area, I hope you’ll join Darlene Campbell of Campbell & Kate, Miss Underpinnings, and me at the Busty Clothing Swap this Saturday (tomorrow!) hosted by Hourglassy and ClosetDash. Raffles, amazing gift bags, and the chance to find some curve-friendly lingerie and clothing and chat with fellow busty women and lingerie enthusiasts. Registration details are here, along with guidelines and a list of the amazing raffle prize sponsors!  Hope to see you there!

Brand Introduction: Freya

For those of us who know our bra sizes better than our social security numbers, Freya is nothing new, but for many women, particularly in North America, who are just getting to know their full-bust sizes, Freya’s is the first friendly face they’ll meet.  While Freya may not be for everyone, I want to share the brand with you because 1) it’s widely available in North America now, 2) it’s moderately priced (generally), and 3) Freya really paved the way for many of the beautiful, varied full-bust companies on the market today.

Lots of Styles

“Deco” molded plunge bra, available in black and beige as well as seasonal colors. Sizes 28-38 B-GG (some exceptions).

Being an internationally recognized leader in the full-bust market, Freya has the resources to offer many, many different styles over the course of a year.  On average, around 20+ new styles hit the market every season, including swim, lounge, lingerie, and athletic wear.

Clockwise from top left: Active, Lingerie, Lounge, Maternity, Swim

Freya offers lots of different shapes, too: padded half-cup, seamed balconette, molded plunge (the enormously popular Deco bra), soft cup, nursing, sports, and strapless bras as well as bikinis, tankinis, and full-length swimsuits, so there’s a chance that even if one shape isn’t your cup of tea, Freya may offer another shape that works for you.  Last year they introduced a longline style which returns this year in multiple prints.  Some bras are padded, some are sheer, some are opaque, some are frilly, some are basic, so you have a great chance of finding underwear to suit your needs and tastes.  Freya will be launching some pretty shapewear next spring, and Freya and sister brands Elomi, Huit, Fauve, Fantasie, and Goddess offer beautiful, colorful options for a range of shapes, sizes, styles, and budgets.

Lots of Sizes (sometimes)

Freya was one of the first labels to offer K-cups and 28-backs, and they should be applauded.  Competitive labels have expanded their size ranges in order to keep up, which means more options for everyone.  However, sometimes there are weirdly arbitrary sizing black holes.  Some bras start at C-cups, others at D, 28 bands frequently aren’t available in the full cup-size spectrum, the athletic and sleepwear ranges don’t go to K cups, and some other styles arbitrarily stop at G or GG instead of extending up to the full GG-K range (particularly in larger band sizes– boo).  Many women are waiting for Freya to adapt the Deco bra for larger cup sizes, and I am baffled as to why the longline bras can’t go higher than a G.  If it’s because the longline bras feature the padded half-cup shape, then make it an unlined balconette longline bra!  Hell, I’d prefer it unlined.  A longline version of the Arabella range would knock my socks off.

Right? Wouldn’t this make a super-sexy longline bra?

Holy crap, you guys, I am a design genius!  Freya, get on that: I will buy the hell out of it.  A longline bra with its six hooks feels like such a blessing to so many full-busted women, since, as we know, support comes from the band.  I know that the design, construction, and, well, architecture of larger cup sizes is more challenging and more time-consuming, but women who wear these sizes often want supportive sleepwear and sports bras most of all, and there’s currently a huge hole in the market.

Lots of Accessories

I’ve made my feelings on matching sets known before: I love them, I crave them, I feel so pretty in them.  Freya usually offers at least two, if not more, coordinating knickers (and occasionally suspenders) for each of their bras and coordinating bottoms for each of their bikinis and tankinis.  As an avowed thong-hater, I love this, because I can build lingerie ensembles of my choosing, with pieces that I know flatter me and feel the most comfortable.

Some of the accessories available in the following ranges: Pier (swim), Gem, Ashlee, Patsy.

Lots of Color

While my first Freya bra was a fairly basic black (“Pollyanna”, I know I keep harping on it but RIP I miss you), the first thing that made me notice the brand was color.  Again, the full-bust landscape has changed dramatically in the last five years, and brands like Cleo, Miss Mandalay, Parfait, Claudette, Curveturiere, and others feature bright, bold, on-trend colors and a sophisticated design approach, but when I first started figuring out how to fit my breasts, my only point of reference was your average US department store, where my options were beige, black, and white, if they carried my size at all.  Freya bras, on the other hand, came in reds and pinks and greens and blues and deep purples, and they were trimmed with lace and contrasting bows and ruffles.  The designs were interesting, the colors popped, and the whole feel overall was so much more youthful, sexy, and fun than the beige minimizer bras I’d turned to for years.

Some of the many, many colorful lingerie pieces released over the last few years.

Lots of Print

Polka dots. Bows. Flowers. Tattoos. Flamingos. Russian dolls. Feathers. Stripes. Freya really stands out in the full-bust market for its sometimes completely bonkers prints (I mostly mean that as a compliment).  While it’s really lovely to have elegant, luxurious lingerie in your drawer, sometimes it’s also nice to inject a little fun into the mix.  I will always love polka dots, and I LOVED the Nieve print (which sort of kills me, because I found the fit in both the balconette and the longline bras to be pretty strange (more later)).  There’s a nice playfulness to some of the prints, and a charming sensuality to others.

Freya Prints: Nieve (longline), Tabitha (balconette), Carly (molded plunge)

Does Freya have it all?  Well . . . they have a lot!  I think branching into shapewear for Spring 2013 was a really smart decision, given that shapewear’s surging popularity shows no signs of stopping.  I hope Freya listen to feedback and continue to expand their size ranges, as there are currently lots of ladies falling into the gaps.  There are sometimes baffling fit inconsistencies that make shopping online a real pain.  In the last year or two it seems like Freya’s bands have gotten much, much stretchier, and sometimes the cups have too.  I have the balconette version of the Nieve in what is, for me, a pretty average size, and I’ve worn it a few times, but it has stretched so quickly I’m already wearing it on the tightest hooks, and the cups are bizarrely unsupportive and droopy.  I almost feel like I should have gone down 1 band size and up 2 cup sizes, a fit adjustment that is impossible to anticipate and which most likely means an online shopper will have to pay shipping and returns.  The “Faye” style is very popular as a basic bra, but I have yet to find the right fit on me.  I find the band somehow loose and tight all at once, the cups are shallow, and the fabric feels flimsy to me.  However, these complaints might be specific to my body type, and maybe to a women with firmer tissue or differently shaped breasts, Freya’s recent design changes are a breath of fresh air.  Freya’s wires tend to run narrower than Panache’s, which are notoriously wide, so Freya bras in general might suit some women better than others.  Finally, many of Freya’s unlined bras give a kind of retro pointy shape, which can be either really appealing or a huge turn-off, depending on your preferences.  I’m not a fan of the shape for me personally, but I have found that the silhouette tends to soften to a more natural look after a few wearings, almost like I have to break it in first.

While I don’t think Freya will ever be everything to any one specific customer,  I do think Freya has a little something to offer a wide range of women, no matter her age, shape, or style.

Have you tried Freya?  Do you have a favorite style?  I’ve mostly featured past styles, but if you want a sneak peek of Spring/Summer 2013 (and the chance to preorder anything that catches your eye), check out A Sophisticated Pair’s preview of some of the beautiful styles to come!

“Universal Cup Size”: You’re Doing It Wrong

I remember timidly exploring the world of online lingerie shopping shortly after moving to New York.  I Googled my size at the time: 34DDD, according to Nordstrom.  Even though I soon found websites like HerRoom, FreshPair, Figleaves, and Bare Necessities, knowing my size wasn’t much of a help.  Some of these places didn’t seem to carry anything over a DD cup, or they had letters like Es and Fs, and I wasn’t sure how those corresponded to the size I was wearing.  If I did find a 34DDD, the offerings were bland and boring (the next salesperson to suggest I try a Le Mystère bra gets it hurled back in her face).  It was then that I learned that shopping as a wearer of D+ bras would forever be a crapshoot.

Flash-forward (eesh, five years already), and my goodness how things have changed.  Online lingerie retailers offer huge inventories of merchandise for many previously under-served customers.  Just take a look at Invest in Your Chest’s recent report from Moda of the Spring/Summer 2013 trends.  Many of the items she photographed are made by companies that cater specifically to smaller or fuller busts and/or smaller back sizes and/or fuller figures, and the styles, colors, details, patterns, and cuts are sexy, feminine, fun, and enticing.  It’s wonderful, and it’s an acknowledgment from designers and retailers that 34-38 B-D will no longer cut it.  Women come in so many shapes and sizes, and they’re better served, lingerie-wise, than they’ve ever been before.

It’s still confusing though.  French, English, Italian, American, and other European manufacturers all have the opportunity to pick a different cup-sizing method, if they want to.  The vastness of online lingerie retail means that it’s the shopper’s responsibility to do a little homework before she makes a purchase.  She needs to know her brand’s country of origin, and she needs to know her size across different manufacturers.  Many e-retailers try to solve this problem by placing a disclaimer next to a product (ex. “This bra comes in UK sizes.  Be sure to order your UK size” or “see International conversion chart here”), but HerRoom decided to eliminate some of the homework and create a “Universal Cup Sizing (UCS)” system.  In theory, this is great: all the world’s bras united under one sizing system, which simplifies a confusing shopping process.  EXCEPT IT’S LOATHSOME AND DUMB, BECAUSE ONCE AGAIN IT CUTS OFF AFTER D. Continue reading